Fat Cow could be referred to as the Fort Knox of Japanese Wagyu in these parts. Wagyu connoisseurs flock here to celebrate and appreciate well-marbled cuts served in bespoke style. Now, the long-standing fine-dining establishment sees new head chef Shingo Iijima at the helm.
At 37 young, the prolific chef brings with him 14 years' worth of experience in Japan with numerous prestigious restaurants including Zaimokutei (kaiseki) and Mutsukari (kappo). Most recently, he was the executive chef at Miraku Restaurant in Penang. While Japanese Wagyu remains Fat Cow's main focus, his tenure signals a stronger emphasis on classic Japanese kaiseki and seasonality.
Making the shift to a Wagyu Kaiseki format, diners can choose between two menus: Shin, an affordably-priced lunch menu at $168, and Tetsu, a comprehensive dinner menu for $350. It all begins with a wooden tray stocked with Japanese seasonal vegetables. Iijima introduces the prelude: porcelain-white orbs of kokabu turnip, bright-yellow-hued pumpkin, bouquets of maitake and Daikoku shimeiji mushrooms from Kyoto and more. Then comes an alluring start (pictured above) made up of that very maitake you just saw – hand torn and grilled – along with slices of brandy-kombu aged flounder, dashi-marinated crown daisies, Ogawa uni and salmon roe.
Watch as Iijima works meticulously to string together upcoming courses with cadence and balance, delighting your palate from light to heavy flavours all before resetting for another cycle. The methodical approach is reflected in an elegant sashimi medley of melt-in-your-mouth chutoro contrasted with Japanese barracuda that is lightly seared on straw. Next, charcoal-kissed pieces of unagi come buried within a silky Tamajimushi (steamed egg custard, pictured above) and topped with uni wrapped in a shiso leaf tempura.
That same rhythm is also displayed in the nigiri sushi course, which comes staggered in two segments. The first wave – before the cooked dishes – shores up a catch of salt-cured sea bream, sake-marinated monkfish liver and straw-smoked kinmedai. The second wave – arriving right before dessert – is made up of bamboo leaf sea eel, kelp-grilled codfish milt and a mini chirashi bejewelled with uni and ikura. It's not your usual omakase flow, but Iijima's intention is to allow diners to fully savour the kaiseki elements without being overwhelmed by a slurry of sushi beforehand.
The course that best sums up Iijima’s culinary style is the Wagyu Yuba To Kokabu No Taitan (pictured above). It is a wholesome combination of thinly sliced Miyazaki A4 Wagyu, silky Kyoto yuba, and soft kokabu turnip, all bathed in bonito-laced stock. Finished with a splash of bright yellow yuzu miso emulsion made from Saikyo miso – a lauded miso producer in Kyoto that was once a worthy tribute to the emperor – this dish is exemplary of Iijima’s confidence, passion and respect towards classic Japanese cuisine.
Don’t expect melons for sweet endings either. Iijima presents a hot and cold interplay of baked sweet potato alongside vanilla ice cream and Wasanbon molasses – a prized Japanese raw sugar with a heritage that dates back to the 1770s. This final course (pictured above) tells a story of his journey from when he was tasked to design his very first dessert as well as to pay tribute to his mentor, Tetsu, which he named the dinner omakase menu after.
Fans who are familiar with Fat Cow’s former style may find themselves missing the gold flakes and the pageantry that comes with it. But rest assured, Iijima’s new direction is very much grounded and the taste does not suffer from it one bit. It only goes to show less is more.
