The age-old cooking style of irori is one for the senses: you hear every crack and pop coming from the open-fire grills; lose your gaze in the lava-like flares from the burning embers; pick up whiffs of languid sweet smoke; and bask in the warmth from the hearth. Irori is a slow-cooking style that dates back to the Jomon period when families would gather around sunken fire pits for a communal meal.
What used to be commonplace in every Japanese household is now a rare sight to experience in Japan – let alone in Singapore. But one man is about to bring it back with his latest Japanese restaurant located on Craig Road. At Hearth, ex-Kamoshita chef Koki Miyoshi honours the forgotten practice of irori and helms the grills. And while the doors of this dimly lit drinking den open at 6pm, it doesn’t get busy till later in the evening – though reservations are still highly encouraged.
Cosy up on the sleek chestnut-hued dining counter where the warmth of the hearth greets you. But don’t expect a campfire dinner around a sunken fire pit, Hearth’s irori is made from stone and lined with sand for insulation. Most of the action happens behind the bar: watch as the methodical Miyoshi scores his ingredients, tames the heat, manoeuvres each skewer, and dances around the fire. And chiming in the background is a tasteful playlist of jive-worthy oldies – think Bee Gees, Rod Steward and Elton John.
Alcoholic drinks are a mandatory part of the Japanese izakaya experience so your first order of business is to sort out your drink. On offer are carafes of handpicked fine sake, fruit-based sours and the classic highball. Our chirpy host recommends that we start with the Slightly Better Highball ($15) amongst a sea of boozy choices. It is a refreshing fizzer that drinks elegantly with subtle smoke to finish – we later find out that the Hekishu blended whisky incorporates Scottish Islay whisky.
Place your irori orders asap as the slow cooking process isn’t one to be rushed. While we wait, we line our tummies with a cold starter of oily grilled mackerel ($12) tossed with textures of edamame, baby corn and plum hijiki seaweed. The briny snack pairs wonderfully with the highball. Next off the shichirin grill, a neatly seared Wagyu beef tataki ($28) that is pink in the middle and tender to bite. The accompaniments of aged sake steak sauce, sliced onions and Hokkaido horseradish shavings make this dish an easy polish.
Don't sleep on the grilled rice ball ($12). This unassuming treat is an absolute delight that is crunchy to bite and bursts with umami-ladened tori miso that hides within. In the veggie department, the charred Japanese eggplant ($12) tastes clean as it melts in your mouth. Alas, after 35 minutes, our order of a whole iwashi ($22) is now ready.
Miyoshi serves it on the stick, proudly brandishing the glistening sheen and fierce grill marks left on its crisped skin. The slow-cooking technique ensures that the firm-textured sardine retains all of its glorious juices and doesn't dry out. It pairs well with cloudy Nokyo Ume Sake ($20), offering balance with its mellowed tartness whenever our palate seeks a cleanse. Though if you’re fussy about picking out bones, other easy-to-eat options include the koji-marinated salmon ($20) or the miso-laced Japanese pork shoulder ($25).
Save space for Miyoshi's signature oden and have a taste of the homemade chicken tsukune, radish, and deep-fried tofu. Or make space for the smoked Japanese pork ginger potato salad ($15). The heavenly dollop of creamy potatoes is mingled with lightly smoked diced pork belly, a sharp kick of spice and crunchy potato chips.
Hearth manages to impress as a one-of-a-kind dining experience lined with mastery, flair and attention to detail. And unlike the dime-a-dozen yakitori joints, the art of irori cooking forces one to be patient which in return, allows us to truly unwind and savour deliciously cooked foods. And if this is what you’re after, you ought to snag a seat by the hearth.
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