Just a decade or so back, there was nothing more than industrial buildings and run-down shophouses in the Lavender area. Today, this once-gritty district is quickly becoming one of Singapore’s mainstay food haunts with trendy cafes and fusion restaurants. But Hinode Izakaya & Bar, which opened its doors in late 2020, remains relatively inconspicuous.
We can’t help but notice the old-world charm of this izakaya, a cosy setup in a series of restored shophouses. Traditional lanterns and a sake bar counter make for a quasi-Japanese touch. It’s quiet on a weekday evening though with just a few tables seated, but in stark contrast, it’s flanked by restaurants that have two-hour wait times. The menu is conventional as far as izakaya fare goes, and like most in Singapore, their speciality is kushiyaki - grilled skewers that have been marinated with either tare or salt. The usual crowd-pleasers make an appearance: unagi ($7.90), tsukune ($4), and Hokkaido scallop ($8.90).
Nose-to-tail dining might be making a splash, but the Japanese have been doing it for centuries. Chicken offal is common here, with chicken heart artery ($3.20) and chicken liver ($3.20). No doubt, freshly grilled skewers are made delectable when paired with a carafe of cold sake. The gold standard of any izakaya is a sprawling sake list. While it’s a concise one-pager here, there’s everything to fit the bill, featuring various bottles of junmai ginjo and daiginjo. Those who work in nearby offices will also appreciate the lunch set menus, starting from $18.80 for a salmon ikura don with a salad and miso soup.
They also have another restaurant, Hinode Sake Bar & Grill in Chinatown, which also specialises in yakitori.
As hole-in-the-wall as it is, the food is solid and the hospitality top-notch. But the gentrification in this food strip is glaringly obvious: “minimalist” and typically Instagrammable cafes are in tight quarters with curry rice and pig’s organ soup stalls. It’s getting harder to stand out in this crowd – being new and shiny no longer equals a sure-fire win.
