You can now dine where you once danced, because what was once the loudest club in town is now an elegant modern Asian restaurant by The Brewerkz Group. We’re talking about Jiak Kim House, which took over the old Zouk establishment along Jiak Kim Street. The 1920s heritage warehouse now presents contemporary interpretations of traditional local flavours as a nod to the building’s storied past. And before you roll your eyes at yet another Mod-Sin restaurant sprouting up in the city, here’s our take on why we think this one matters.
We first have to give some credit to the space. The guys at the Dinding Design Office managed to transform a raucous party house that was perpetually shrouded in darkness – barring those flashing strobe lights – into a swanky space that marries contemporary design elements with traditional touches. Its new look also gives you a feel of how expansive the warehouse is, thanks to the lofty ceilings and sculptural light fixtures that illuminate the interiors. The highlight is the industrial metal structures and arches along the ceiling that are retained from the original building, giving the entire space a more organic feel.
As for the food, we love that Chef TQ isn’t afraid to go down on the seasonings, and what results is a menu full of punchy, robust flavours, down to the bread course. Instead of sourdoughs and brioche buns, expect bolo buns stuffed with century egg and ‘mochishires’ – a mix of Yorkshire pudding and Brazilian cheese bread – to pair with a rich, spiced curry butter. You’ll want to order the Tingkat of Memories ($36) to share as well. Modern tingkat containers fashioned as sleek wooden boxes are presented, each containing flavoursome light bites like seven-herbed crab cake, lamb goulash croquette, otak otak with Spanish mackerel and chilli crab pie tee.
Another highlight is the Mushroom Herbal Tea ‘Macchiato’ ($22) – Chef TQ’s play on bak kut teh. Bak kut teh renditions seem to be a fad in the local food scene as of late, but this might just be our favourite one yet. Peppery fermented mushroom essence and peppercorn foam are presented in a cup alongside dough fritters on the side, for you to dip and drink in JJ Lin ‘dou jiang you tiao’ fashion.
After a strong showing from the starters, things naturally dampen down when it comes to the mains. Nevertheless, you won’t go wrong ordering the garum quail panggang ($46), featuring a butterflied and barbecued quail that’s perfectly tender with a satisfying char, paired with cauliflower bhaji, celeriac puree and truffle sauce. Equally impressive is the Beef Tongue-to-Tail ($42) which features a range of beef cuts cooked with different methods – think rendang short ribs, braised oxtail and torched beef tongue. While the rendang and oxtail are excellent, we like the beef tongue best as it boasts a rich, intense flavour despite its more firm and chewy texture. Special mention goes to the domino potatoes on the side – a labour-intensive creation with a golden brown exterior and tender middle that shouldn’t go unrecognised.
And before waltzing off, here’s your reminder to take a second glance at the dessert menu. Everything’s well thought out and artfully presented, with portions generous enough for sharing. Jiak Kim ($22) is the restaurant’s eponymous signature dessert, translating to “eat gold” in Hokkien. The dessert features an earl grey mousse base with berriolette compote, roselle hawthorn jelly, and a luxurious gold leaf to top it all off. Else, go for Snow Peak ($22) – a sculptural, monochromatic, all-white dessert made of Moutai pineapple sorbet, tropical fruits and an interesting ingredient – kombucha scoby.
Finish off your meal with a tipple or two from the cocktail menu, which sees six signature cocktails inspired by local ingredients and the history of the area. For something simple, opt for the Sips Of The Silk Road ($26) – a mezcal and whisky infusion paired with spiced bitters, ginger liqueur and kaffir lime. And for the more adventurous, unique blends include The Asian Banana ($26) featuring Filipino brandy and banana liqueur; as well as the Emperor State ($26) which sees a homemade durian liqueur paired with pisco, Chartreuse green liqueur, thyme and lemonade.