The Disgruntled Chef (The Club)
Time Out says
Upmarket French on Ann Siang
For its second outlet, at The Club hotel, The Disgruntled Chef ditches its Dempsey brunch rays and ladies-who-lunch crowd for a nighttime, street-smart CBD flock.
The welcoming crew ushers diners into a handsome 66-seater room covered in dark grey, with moss green armchairs set against walls of art. Outside, alfresco seating peers over the heads of Chinatown's low shophouses, and a private room for 13 hides away in the basement with silk wall coverings.
However, Daniel Sia – of Les Amis pedigree – will be discontent to note that most of the dishes suffer from the trek up from the basement kitchen. Sure, they're Instagram-able works of art, but plates like the crisped-skin, sticky-sauced Kurobuta belly ($38), or the shallow puddle of confit white asparagus with egg yolk and prosciutto ($21), are dismayingly lukewarm on arrival. And don't take the plates, classified 'Small' and 'Big', to be sharing platters, either – they're better suited as the (pricey) appetisers and mains they really are.
Fix these and Sia might do justice to his better dishes, such as the signature assembly of pungent cep-paste, wagyu beef ribbons and confit yolk ($26), fluffy truffle brioche ($12), and the textural dessert of champagne-cooked strawberries with mascarpone ($16). The new Disgruntled Chef's given us much to feel sullen about, but we'd like to think it can do better.
Level 1, The Club
28 Ann Siang Rd
|Opening hours:||Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm, 6.30-10.30pm|
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