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Toa Payoh Dragon Playground
Photograph: Derek Teo/ Shutterstock

The ultimate guide to Toa Payoh

While you’re in this heritage ’hood, have a look around its gems hidden between HDB blocks

Fabian Loo
Written by
Charlene Fang
&
Fabian Loo
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The name takes reference from the large swampy area that the town used to be – toa is the Hokkien word for big and payoh is the Malay word for swamp. The are was also notorious for squatters which were relocated to make way for Housing and Development Board (HDB) flats and estates. Toa Payoh then became one of the first towns designed entirely by the HDB, and even today, you can find the headquarters for HDB in this town. Not only is it close to bustling Orchard Road where everything happens, but Toa Payoh is also famous for the number of lesser-known gems you have to expend a bit of energy to uncover.

RECOMMENDED: Ultimate guide to Singapore's neighbourhood

DO

  • Attractions
  • Historic buildings and sites
  • Toa Payoh

A focal point of Toa Payoh Town Park, which was completed in 1972, this 27-metre tall Observation Tower with its futuristic spaceship-like structure was a popular spot for wedding photoshoots in the ’80s. In 2009, it was awarded conservation status by the Urban Redevelopment Authority and while it presently remains closed – a shame, as we imagine it offers panoramic views of the area – to the public, it still makes for a pretty picture when you’re in the area.

  • Things to do
  • Toa Payoh

Even if you’ve yet to see the iconic site in person, we’re pretty sure you’ve seen it on your Instagram feed. Built in the 1970s, this mosaic-clad dragon play structure is the poster child of retro playgrounds
 in Singapore. Back in the good old days, children would slide down its colourful back. Today, safety hazards have gotten in the way of that, but the beloved playground still holds significant sentimental value as the only dragon playground with a sandpit in Singapore – head on down for a dose of nostalgia. Or to snap that perfect #OOTD.

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  • Attractions
  • Religious buildings and sites
  • Toa Payoh

You’ll be hardpressed to ignore this Buddhist temple (one of the oldest in Singapore) that’s constructed in a traditional Hokkien style, with swallow-tail ends at the edges of the roof and elaborate decorations. A building that testifies to the spread of Mahayana Buddhism in Singapore and around Southeast Asia, the main Mahavira Hall houses the images of Shakyamuni, Bhaisajyaguru and Amitabha while working monks still reside in the rear halls.

  • Kids
  • Playgrounds
  • Toa Payoh

No, SAFRA is not just for army boys. If the birthday boy or girl prefers to crawl through tunnels, explore themed zones and solve puzzles, then SAFRA Toa Payoh has it all. Here, kids can learn something about the world we live in, so it’s both fun and educational. And no worries if the birthday kid is just two months old. SAFRA Toa Payoh even has an Infant & Toddler Play Zone designed by early childhood experts for your tots to roll around in total safety.

EAT

  • Restaurants
  • Toa Payoh
  • price 1 of 4

With food prices ranging between two dollars to ten, this food centre serves meals that are pretty decent and not too harsh on the wallet. Here are five things we tried at this hawker centre.  Nasi lemak, bak kut teh, fish ball noodles, hokkien mee , cheng tng and more for less than $10 – this 'hood is the place to be for some of the best (and cheapest) local dishes. 

  • Restaurants
  • Hawker
  • Toa Payoh

No self-respecting foodie can resist the alluring scent and taste of goreng pisang (fried banana fritters) from this stall located near the library. The combination of deep-fried batter that shatters on first bite together with chunks of creamy banana is a party in the mouth. For a more savoury snack, choose the deep-fried sweet potato balls (filled with red bean, yam or mung bean paste) coated with a generous layer of sesame seeds for the full crunch factor.

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  • Restaurants
  • Hawker
  • Toa Payoh

Tan Yang Choong learnt the trade from his father who started the business back in 1965. Today, he works in unison with his wife, preparing piping hot bowls of laksa while she takes orders and collects money. The bright orange laksa broth comes topped with slices of fried fishcake, tofu puffs, prawns, blood cockles and a generous dash of Vietnamese coriander. But what makes it stand out from other places that hawk this iconic local dish is the chilli. At $3 for a very generous bowl, we can see why this laksa joint is popular with the heartland working crowd. 

  • Restaurants
  • Chinese
  • Toa Payoh

Stepping into this Teochew restaurant, located on the second floor above the supermarket at Toa Payoh Central feels like entering a time capsule. The decor is reminiscent of an old-school banquet set-up, and till today, its famous dim sum is peddled around in pushcarts. Over 30 varieties are available as part of the high tea buffet offerings, and prices start from just $25.80 on weekdays. 

DRINK

  • Restaurants
  • Toa Payoh

What was once a dental clinic nestled deep within the Toa Payoh heartlands is now a cutesy café named after the day that precedes Ash Wednesday and sweet treats. No pancakes here – just housemade waffles ($5), a range of gelato flavours ($3/ single scoop, $5/double) and aromatic brews. Sip on a range of espresso-based drinks (from $4.50), or turn its ice cream into a beverage with a float ($4.50) or milkshake (from $7.50).

SHOP

  • Things to do
  • Games and hobbies
  • Toa Payoh

Kitschy but cute, this niche playing card seller attracts hobby enthusiasts looking for Pokémon trading cards and Pikachu packs. For Lego lovers, take note of its impressive stockist of rare products. Otherwise, join its regular game nights and trade tips with other Magic: The Gathering and Bushiroad fans.

  • Sport and fitness
  • Cycling
  • Toa Payoh

If you’re looking for a limited edition Brompton to pedal about town, you won’t find it here. What you will find though are reasonable prices, a good range of quality models and friendly staff who know their way round two wheelers. Brands Benson carries include KHS, Java, GT and Raleigh and it’s happy to recommend what works best for your needs. It also does repairs, in case you’re looking to spruce up your ride.

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  • Health and beauty
  • Toa Payoh

Long-maned Hamzah and his old barbering friends service the handsome and hefty Takara chairs in this Toa Payoh shop, thick with the musty smell of mothballs. The shop was originally named after Abu Nawas, a comedian from Arabian folklore, but Bugs Bunny it was christened after a few years to make remembering the ’90s-inspired interiors and its tavern-like bricky façade – complete with a faded Bugs Bunny painted on the door – easier. 

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