Travel guide to Tohoku region, Japan

Aizu-Wakamatsu is a city in Japan’s Fukushima Prefecture. Visitors flock here to soak in mineral-rich hot springs, dive into the history of the samurai and visit the fourth-largest lake in Japan.

Ouchi-juku is a picturesque village built around 1640 that features thatched houses, many of which have been preserved from the Edo period (1603-1868). It’s known as a “post town”, commonly used as a resting place for cross-country travellers. The houses are now home to a selection of shops and cafés, many of which have been run by the same families for generations. Visit in winter to see the snow blanketing on the thatched rooftops.

The centrepiece of Aizu-Wakamatsu is Tsuruga Castle, built in 1384, demolished in 1874 and reconstructed about 50 years ago. The main tower, a 35-metre-tall pile of very Instagrammable pagodas, functions as a lookout and a museum. Winding your way up, you’ll explore the history of the feudal lords who ruled over Aizu, see weapons crafted by local swordsmen and learn stories of the Byakkotai, a group of 20 teenage samurai who committed suicide on a nearby hill during the Boshin War believing, wrongly, that the castle’s defences had been breached. 

Though best known for its world-class skiing and snowboarding, Mount Bandai offers a great escape into nature year round. During the warm months, you can go for extended walks around Lake Hibara, which is known for its crystal-clear ponds that wouldn’t feel out of place around the Mediterranean. 

Nearby, on the border of Bandai-Asahi National Park, is Lake Inawashiro. The fourth-largest lake in all of Japan, Inawashiro is located at the very centre of the Fukushima Prefecture and it’s a very important landmark for the local Japanese people. Thanks to its transparency, the lake has even earned the nickname “sky mirror lake” and is popular in summer with boaters and local swimmers. 

If you’re keen on chasing waterfalls, head a little further east and follow the Taru River towards Tatsuzawa Fudo Falls. It’s an incredibly picturesque waterfall that falls thunderously over black rocks and is flanked by lush greenery. Picture perfect is somehow an understatement.

You’re in Japan, so naturally, you’re going to want noodles. In Aizu, we’d suggest trying the local delicacy: soba noodles. The grain is harvested all over this region so trying it is a must. The soba noodles from Aizu are chewy and slightly sweet and are best enjoyed with a cool soy-spiked broth and grated daikon radish on top. In restaurants at Ouchi-juku, it’s a local specialty to eat soba with a large green onion instead of chopsticks. Fair warning, it’s harder than it looks.

Closer to Aizu is Kutsurogijuku Chiyotaki, a traditional Japanese inn that boasts a stunning rooftop hot spring. Towards Mount Bandai you can stay at the Bandaisan Onsen Hotel. In the cooler months, this resort-style hotel is one of the most popular ski resorts in the region, but in summer its mountain-side location is the perfect base for exploring the neighbouring lakes.

It’s about a three-and-a-half-hour drive north of Tokyo, otherwise, take the bullet train to Koriyama and then change to the JR Ban-etsu West Line to reach this picturesque region in around three hours.

In summer the region is lush and green, and the warm weather means you have the perfect excuse to join the locals and take a dip in Lake Inawashiro. However, if you’re a keen skier, winter is particularly stunning, albeit pretty cold. The pay-off is seeing the lakes completely frozen over.

Sake! The region is known for its sake breweries – we’d suggest visiting the small, locally run Eisen Shuzo near Bandai for a tasting (and a take-home, natch).