Nishihara Shotengai
Photo: Manabu Morooka
Photo: Manabu Morooka

17 best restaurants, cafés, shops and things to do in Nishihara and Hatagaya

These two neighbouring ’hoods are packed with cute cafés, cosy eateries and plenty of charm

Kaila Imada
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Shibuya is an expansive and dynamic district, and there’s far more to it than the iconic scramble crossing, Yoyogi Park and the ever-popular Harajuku. Head north from Yoyogi-Uehara and you’ll discover one of our favourite hidden gems: Nishihara. This stylish enclave is a delight to explore, packed with charming bakeries, restaurants, cosy bars and chic lifestyle shops – many of which are clustered along the vibrant Nishihara Shotengai, just a two-minute stroll from Hatagaya Station. 

This bustling shopping street flows seamlessly into neighbouring Hatagaya, another lovely ’hood home to numerous hole-in-the-wall eateries, timeworn cafés and hip boutiques. Thanks to their close proximity, Nishihara and Hatagaya make for the perfect pairing when you’re in the mood for a laid-back yet exciting urban adventure.

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Eat

  • Hatagaya

This tiny standing bistro in Hatagaya is a local favourite, cherished for its laid-back atmosphere, affable owners, immaculate food and top-notch drink selection. With the owner hailing from Kagoshima, the restaurant proudly highlights ingredients from his home prefecture, offering diners a chance to try Kagoshima potato shochu, regional fish, and pork from a special breed that was once nearly extinct.

While the menu changes frequently depending on what’s in season, you can expect a rotating selection of osozai (side dishes) like fresh green salad with homemade dressing, carottes râpées (grated carrot salad), and pork rillettes which pair wonderfully with Kanejo’s housebaked bread. Heartier options range from piping hot karaage fried chicken to oven-baked sea bream served with mushrooms.

  • Barbecue
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Opened in 2020 by a husband-and-wife duo who relocated to Tokyo from Brooklyn, Freeman Shokudo has built up a solid fanbase with its excellent barbecue. The laid-back smokehouse in the quiet inner Shibuya neighbourhood of Nishihara doesn’t serve your typical American barbecue fare, showcasing instead a unique style that proprietor Jeremy Freeman perfected over the years at his backyard BBQ parties back in Brooklyn. 

The eatery specialises in pit-smoked barbecue, with highlights including pastrami (from ¥2,400) cured for seven days, dried for 24 hours, and smoked at a low temperature for twelve hours before being served. Each serving of it weighing in at a meaty 250g, the pastrami beef here is made from US beef brisket, cured and smoked over Japanese oak and rubbed with spices such as black pepper and coriander.

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  • Pâtisseries
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Nestled in cosy Nishihara, Equal is a chic patisserie by renowned chef Yuichi Goto, who trained at the three-starred Restaurant Troisgros in France and co-owns the acclaimed Path in nearby Tomigaya. Since opening in 2019, Equal has drawn baked-goods enthusiasts for its refined pastries and sweets.

There’s not an overwhelming selection of items on the menu here, but must-tries include the delicate cheesecake encased in a thin crust and Goto’s signature choux à la crème – a golden-brown cream puff filled with light pastry cream. Another winner is Equal’s standout French cruller, which comes in ever-changing flavours like pistachio, coconut passion and chocolate hazelnut. Seasonal soft serve ice cream is also available and can be ordered plain, as a cherry pie sundae or with a choux crème for the perfect double treat.

  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Warm rice, savoury fillings and a crisp sheet of nori – onigiri might just be the ultimate comfort food. If you’re on the hunt for a great takeaway meal or snack, head straight to Isshoku Onigiri, a rice ball specialist in Nishihara that crafts onigiri with domestic ingredients and high quality rice.

Flavours come in all the classic offerings from salmon and tuna mayo to konbu kelp and salted honey ume (plum). Additionally, Isshoku offers a selection of small side dishes which make the perfect accompaniment to your rice balls. Past offerings have included napa cabbage salad with tiny sakura shrimp and stir-fried squid and cucumber with ginger. What’s more, you can also order vegetarian-friendly miso soup made without bonito flakes – a rare find in Tokyo.

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  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Wine and ice cream may not be the most common pairing, but that’s exactly what you’ll find at Kasiki. This sleek and modern, modestly sized café-bar serves up unorthodox ice cream flavours such as rhubarb and Japanese sansho pepper, pineapple jasmine tea and green tea with rosemary. Single scoops are ¥600, with double scoops going for ¥850 and triple for ¥1,000. Along with ice cream, there are also a couple of unique desserts on the menu that change seasonally. Most recently, Kasiki offered a passion fruit crème brûlée served with Taiwanese oolong ice cream. 

In addition to natural wine, the shop carries a thoughtful selection of beer, tea and juice, as well as coffee from the esteemed Japanese roaster Coffee County. Wines are available by the glass or bottle, with the curated list handpicked by the owner of Wineshop Ethelvine, a renowned boutique wine shop based in Kyoto.

  • Bakeries
  • Hatagaya

Steppin’ is a hidden gem of a bakery quietly tucked away just a block off Hatagaya’s main shotengai shopping street. With no signboard to mark its entrance, it’s the kind of place you’ll only find if you know exactly where to look. From 8am, the shop fills with the aroma of freshly baked bread – think pillowy focaccia, hearty German-style loaves, flaky croissants, sweet canelés and classic English muffins. There’s also a small refrigerator where you can pick up small sandwiches like semi-dried tomato focaccia stuffed with creamy brie cheese. 

Steppin’ may only open four days a week, but for true bread lovers, it’s a hidden treasure well worth the effort to seek out.

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  • Café bars
  • Hatagaya
  • price 1 of 4

Giving off a relaxed, local vibe, Lug serves up great coffee and an approachable menu for daily brunch, lunch and dinner. Come evening, it transforms into a full-fledged bar, offering an impressive selection of craft beers and natural wines sourced from the shop’s cosy little wine cellar tucked away in the back. Rum lovers are in for a treat too, with a remarkable collection of around 200 varieties to choose from. As for food, you can expect everything from staples like croque monsieurs and clubhouse sandwiches to Lug's egg salad pie and orange butter pancakes.

This café and bar is operated by Blue Lug, the beloved Hatagaya bicycle shop – so while you sip your coffee or enjoy a drink, you can also take advantage of their convenient on-site bike repair service.

  • Shopping
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

This popular bread shop is located in a quiet residential area between Yoyogi-Uehara and Hatagaya. The bakery sells crusty breads such as baguettes, and pastries coated in sugar. From around 11am two kinds of bánh mì (pork and tuna) go on sale for the lunch crowd. 

There's also a small café space in the basement where you can enjoy Parisan-style breakfast sets, omelettes, croque monsieur sandwiches and coffee. Do note that the café space is only open from 7.30am until 11.30am.

Drink

  • Coffeeshops
  • Yoyogi-Uehara
  • price 1 of 4

Importing beans from Portland’s famed Stumptown Coffee Roasters every week, Daisuke Matsushima’s Paddlers have been caffeinating shoppers at the Nishihara arcade since 2015. All beans are served fresh in french press or espresso form for the perfect flavour. Beans are also available by the bag, with their most popular roast being the Nano Challa from Ethiopia, which offers delicate notes of grapefruit and peach.

To accompany your cup, order one of Paddlers’ signature hot dogs, made with buns from a bakery in the neighbourhood. The café has a calm wooden interior, communal tables and a homely atmosphere – a little piece of the Rose City in one of the quieter corners of Shibuya.

  • Cafés
  • Hatagaya

Situated in a former laundromat, the aptly named Laundry Koffiehuis at the northern edge of Hatagaya is a distinctive coffee house serving speciality coffee that’s carefully brewed to order. The owner, having trained at Onibus Coffee in Nakameguro, offers a curated selection of single-origin hand-drip brews using beans sourced from across the globe – including Ethiopia, Kenya, Bolivia, Rwanda, Honduras and El Salvador.

While enjoying a refreshing brew, why not check out the store’s used apparel section, which occupies a third of the café with a curated selection of vintage sneakers, Levi's denim, Hanes T-shirts and more.

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  • Shopping
  • Off licences
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

This charming cellar-bar, hidden in the relaxed Hatagaya neighbourhood near Shibuya, specialises in natural wine. But don’t let that newfangled wine term scare you: if you’re unfamiliar with the selection on offer, simply specify red, white or sparkling, and trust the recommendations of the store's knowledgeable staff. 

There are two long communal tables with seats to enjoy your wine, as well as some standing room areas. Glasses start from ¥1,000, or you can select a bottle from the cellar and drink it in-situ for ¥3,000 corkage. 

  • Yoyogi-Uehara

At Sanita, which opened in December 2020, you can take a seat at the marble-topped bar, or one of the small tables, and order plates of the house speciality: NYC-style Southern Italian bites. The menu is specific, and it works. Think salami, cheese, chicken soup, octopus salad and tiramisu, all accompanied by cocktails and natural wine (there’s an especially good selection of orange wine). Classic white tiles and the bold lines of a New York bistro bring added charm and relaxed sophistication. You’ll find Sanita on a corner along the eclectic Nishihara shotengai shopping street.

Shop

  • Shopping
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

An institution in the neighbourhood since 2016, À côté – meaning ‘next door’ in French – is the perfect way to describe this zakka variety shop, as it’s like your friendly neighbourhood go-to spot for daily essentials, gifts and even alcohol. 

Goods from both Japan and abroad are thoughtfully displayed throughout the store, where you can browse everything from kitchen tools and Japanese stationery to playful knick-knacks – alongside a well-curated selection of Japanese craft beer and natural wines from France. The store also has a dedicated ‘community spot’ where the owner displays some of her favourite things including items from popular artists like illustrator Izumi Shiokawa.

Early risers may be lucky enough to catch the weekly Saturday morning vegetable market, where you can stock up on pesticide-free produce sold on the shop’s cosy terrace. This takes place from 7am to 10.30am.

  • Shopping
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Just a five-minute walk from Hatagaya Station, Bullpen is a thoughtfully curated furniture and lifestyle shop nestled in the nostalgic Nishihara shopping arcade. Run by a duo with backgrounds in furniture retail, the owners travel both within Japan and abroad to source unique items selected with a designer’s eye and a craftsman’s sensibility.

Bullpen offers a range of one-of-a-kind finds, including their original plant-based liquid soap, 'Palos', available in two distinctive scents: 'Abstract Plants', a woody blend inspired by Japanese cypress, and 'Angelic Chorus' a sweet, exotic fragrance centered around ylang-ylang.

The store’s name reflects the founders’ commitment to fostering strong relationships with the makers – much like the trust between a pitcher and catcher on the field.

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  • Music
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Formerly based in Setagaya’s Kamimachi, Ella Records picked up and moved to Nishihara, in between Hatagaya and Yoyogi-Uehara stations, in summer 2016. The warm, wooden interior houses an impressive selection of rock, soul, jazz, rare groove and Japanese oldies, and you can often spot Shibuya-based DJs browsing the racks in search of filling for their jazz and groove sets. Don’t sleep on the discount corner either. The shop has two listening stations where you can sit down and try before you buy.

To do

  • Health and beauty
  • Saunas and baths
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

This small neighbourhood sento is the perfect place to unwind after a day of walking, shopping and eating. Open from 4pm, the spacious bathhouse offers a soothing escape with weekly rotating herbal baths featuring relaxing scents like peppermint, lavender, rosemary, chamomile, and lemon balm. In addition to the herb baths, guests can enjoy a full-body jacuzzi and a steam sauna (sauna available for an additional ¥500). 

One of the best features of this sento is that it’s tattoo-friendly, so visitors with ink can relax without concern. Conveniently, coin laundry services are also available on-site.

  • Sport and fitness
  • Golf
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your swing or simply blow off some steam, Nishihara Golf Garden offers a convenient and enjoyable escape right in the heart of the city. This rare urban driving range is perfect for both seasoned golfers and curious beginners looking to try something new without leaving Tokyo. 

You can gain entry to the facility for just ¥500, with club rentals available for a wallet-friendly ¥300 – no need to bring your own gear. Practice balls are available for ¥800, making it an affordable and low-commitment way to work on your technique or unwind after a busy day. The range features both a first and a second floor, so you can choose your hitting spot depending on your preference – whether you like the grounded feel of the lower level or the elevated perspective from above.

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