In the Mood for Love
Photograph: In the Mood for Love | 2000
Photograph: In the Mood for Love

8 Bangkok corners that look like a Wong Kar-wai film

From Yaowarat’s neon glow to Talat Noi’s weathered lanes, these atmospheric Bangkok spots could have slipped straight from a Wong Kar-wai frame

Tita Honghirunkham
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Bangkok is having a little Wong Kar-wai moment. This August, Skyline Film brings Chungking Express, In the Mood for Love and Fallen Angels to Shanghai Mansion Bangkok, turning the 1930s Yaowarat hotel into an open-air cinema with the old-Chinatown atmosphere that makes Wong’s films so magnetic. It follows House Samyan’s recent Christopher Doyle retrospective, celebrating the cinematographer whose dreamy, neon-soaked images helped define Wong’s visual language.

The timing makes sense: Bangkok doesn’t merely look a little Wong Kar-wai; it was part of his cinematic world. Although In the Mood for Love is set in 1960s Hong Kong, some exterior scenes were filmed here, where old shophouses, narrow lanes and faded corners could still evoke another era.

That connection feels natural. Like Wong’s Hong Kong, Bangkok is a city of layers: Chinese heritage, ageing buildings, glowing signs and stories unfolding after dark.

It takes little for Bangkok to slip into a Wong Kar-wai frame. Add sunset and a little rain, then wander beyond the temples and rooftop bars to find neon-lit corners, old streets and quiet moments that feel like scenes waiting to happen. Here are eight places to seek out at dusk.

1. Charoen Krung 36 Alley, Bang Rak

Part of In the Mood for Love was shot at this riverside corner in Bang Rak. Charoen Krung 36 Alley supplied the old-world backdrop for 1960s Hong Kong, a city already disappearing by the time Wong made the film.

Much of its atmosphere survives. Heritage buildings, quiet lanes, fading facades and an unhurried rhythm remain. Visit in late afternoon, when the light softens and the crowds thin; this is a Bangkok corner best enjoyed slowly.

2. Yaowarat Road

Yaowarat has been the heart of Bangkok’s Chinatown since the late 19th century. After dark, it’s easy to see why it feels straight out of a Wong Kar-wai film. Red-and-gold Chinese signs glow overhead, motorbikes thread past smoky food carts and old shophouses line the street as they have for generations. This is about as close as Bangkok comes to Chungking Express. Its history, architecture and unmistakable atmosphere have long attracted filmmakers, including the team behind Detective Chinatown.

Don’t rush it. Half the fun is stopping wherever the queue is longest, whether for peppery pork satay sizzling over charcoal, crisp oyster omelettes, oven-warm sesame buns or Michelin-recognised noodles. Arrive around 5.30pm for blue hour, before the crowds peak and the neon takes over.

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3. Soi Nana (Yaowarat)

Step off Yaowarat’s main drag and Soi Nana feels like another decade. Old herbal pharmacies and weathered shophouses have quietly become some of Bangkok’s most atmospheric bars without losing the neighbourhood’s soul.

Ba Hao, set in an unrenovated shophouse, is perhaps the best-known example:  vintage tea tins, warm red light and just enough nostalgia to invite Wong Kar-wai comparisons. 

For more, see our guide to the best bars in Bangkok’s Nana Chinatown.

4. Talat Noi

Talat Noi is Bangkok at its most textured: rusted engine parts stacked against mossy walls, narrow lanes twisting towards the river and shrines glowing amber beneath coils of incense smoke. A working riverside trading community for two centuries, it still feels lived-in rather than stage-managed,, even as street art and excellent cafés move into its old machine shops.

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5. Song Wat Road

Parallel to Yaowarat but a world away in tempo, Song Wat swaps neon chaos for something quieter and more wistful. Historic riverside godowns that once handled the rice and spice trade now house speciality coffee roasters and galleries. Restored with a light touch, their fading signs and shuttered windows still do much of the talking.

Time Out named Song Wat one of the 40 coolest neighbourhoods in the world in 2025. Plan your visit with our tried-and-tested ultimate guide.

6. Hua Lamphong

Bangkok’s grand old railway station – officially Bangkok Railway Station, though almost everyone calls it Hua Lamphong – has operated a reduced service since 2023, when long-distance routes moved to Krung Thep Aphiwat. The missing bustle only deepens the mood: neo-Renaissance curves, amber floodlights and travellers waiting beneath giant clocks. Even without a train to catch, it'’s worth lingering.

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7. Ban Krua

Cross the footbridge behind Jim Thompson House and enter a Bangkok few guidebooks cover. Ban Krua is one of the city’s oldest Muslim communities, established more than two centuries ago by Cham silk weavers. Their descendants still work looms in a handful of homes, continuing the craft that supplied Jim Thompson’s original silk business.

Wooden stilt houses lean into narrow alleys lit by single bulbs, directly below Pathumwan’s glass towers. The contrast is thrillingly disorienting: i two Bangkoks sharing a postcode but seemingly decades apart.

8. Sampeng Lane

Long before Yaowarat Road existed, this narrow kilometre-long lane was Chinatown. It was laid out in 1782, when King Rama I relocated the city’s Chinese community here, over a century before Yaowarat was built. By day, it’s a wholesale crush of fabric bolts, ribbon spools and pushcarts squeezing past shopfronts that have barely changed shape in decades. Arrive at closing, as shutters rattle down and the crowds thin, and the covered lane turns hushed and shadowy – a side absent from postcard Bangkok.

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