The best of Tokyo 2016

Hotel bars usually aren't very inspiring places, especially if you're not staying at the establishment in question. But the Tokyo Station Hotel's boozer sure isn't like most hotel bars: moved to its current location after a six-year renovation completed in 2012, it incorporates red bricks and wood in the décor and is manned by Hisashi Sugimoto, who's been with the hotel since 1958. 'The Master' mixes up his signature Tokyo Station cocktails from 5pm every day – best be there on time for the chance to grab a counter seat and watch Sugimoto work his magic up close.

Established in 1928, this venerable bar was much loved by the literati of the Showa period. Supported from the start by such writers as Kyoka Izumi and Kan Kikuchi, it also became a home for painters, actors and photographers such as Kafu Nagai, Sanjugo Naoki, Yasunari Kawabata, Fumiko Hayashi, Ango Sakaguchi and Osamu Dazai. The menu is modest with a selection of whiskies, bourbons and cocktails, but with its collection of photographs of writers taken by the photographers of the time, it's the perfect place for highbrow literary discussions.

Although the Skytree is taller, newer and fancier, many Tokyoites still prefer good old Tokyo Tower over its upstart challenger. If you agree that the city's original symbol and beloved Eiffel Tower rip-off is still number one, you owe it to yourself to check out the Prince Park Tower's 33rd-floor Sky Lounge and its eye-popping views of the orange-and-white mast. Especially stunning when lit up at night, the tower is best viewed from the 'pair seats' by the windows. Make sure to explore the extensive wine list, too.

Hisashi Kishi broke into the bartending spotlight back in 1996, when he took home the International Bar Association's world championship title at the age of 31. Now also an accomplished author and minor celebrity, he is one of Ginza's most impressive barmen, both in terms of physical appearance and technical skill. Kishi's kingdom is called Star Bar, a quiet basement spot on Namiki-dori, where everything – from the handcrafted ice cubes to the exclusive leather stools – exudes a desire for perfection.

Watch the flamboyant cocktail-creating performance of Mr Hard Shake, or Kazuo Ueda, one of the most famous bartenders in Japan whose award-winning drinks have even found acclaim in the World Bartender Champs. Ueda's bar, found on the fifth floor overlooking Sotobori-dori, is among the more welcoming of Ginza's high-end cocktail temples and is great for quiet conversations over one of the best gimlets you'll ever taste. Note that cocktails cost between ¥1,600 to around ¥3,000 and there's a strict dress code: you'll need to wear at least a button-down shirt. 

From the moment you remove your shoes to walk on the tatami mats to the moment you eat your final morsel of supple crabmeat, Kitafuku is an exhilarating experience. A meal lasts at least two hours, which is the minimum time necessary for a live king crab (typically around 4-5kg) to be deshelled, systematically dismantled – leg by leg, claw by claw – and feasted upon having been prepared in various ways: boiled, charcoal-grilled and sashimi. If you’re squeamish, be warned: you’ll see your dinner alive moments before you eat it. Kitafuku’s ceremonial crab-feasting begins with sashimi for obvious reasons; the chefs, who are sent to Hokkaido to master the art of slicing and snapping jumbo-sized crustaceans, break off the crab’s legs and place them in iced water to be served raw. The rest of the crab is boiled or charcoal grilled, its meat to be eaten at various stages of the cooking process so guests can experience the gradual adjustment of texture and flavour. The little touches at Kitafuku are wow-inducing: magnificent ceramic plates complete with crab illustrations, beautiful decorative calligraphy on the charcoal grill; a coup de théâtre that takes places when the chef introduces the most coveted piece of crab on the table – the heart. A meal at Kitafuku doesn’t come cheap – and if you’re not a big fan of crab, don’t even think about it – but it’s worth every yen for a unique and spectacular evening out.

A cluster of food safety certificates on the walls should assuage the fears of even the most ardent fuguphobes – the blowfish at this Taito-ku restaurant, right in between Asakusa and Ueno, won’t kill you. Quite the contrary, in fact. After eating a mustard-flecked cube of wobbly nikogori, boiled fugu in its own jelly, you’ll have a spring in your step, and not only because you successfully ate the hardest food in the world to negotiate with chopsticks. The creations produced by the gregarious husband-and-wife team at this unostentatious seafood restaurant are vivid and stimulating. The menu is short: fugu six ways (jellied, raw, grilled, deep-fried, soup, hot pot) plus Makino’s blowfish-free signature dish (¥19,000, feeds four), a colossal hot pot of crab, daikon and melting butter, to be topped up with rice, cod roe and egg when you’ve polished off the seafood. Aside from the food safety certificates, the décor consists of some peculiar fugu-centric conceptual art (one appears to portray a lady happily bathing inside a blowfish’s belly), well-stocked sake shelves and low seating on tatami mats. Fugu is winter food in Japan so don’t plan a visit in the summer, not least because Mr and Mrs Fujii will be away on their annual holiday in Hawaii.

Chanko nabe is the protein-rich hotpot dish eaten by sumo wrestlers to build up their massive bodies, and there’s no better way to enjoy this traditional favourite than by having it cooked by a former wrestler. Koto Kuroshio is still a larger-than-life character, despite having shed plenty of weight since his active years, and welcomes all comers to his Kagurazaka restaurant. Photographs of his glory days adorn the walls, a trophy can be seen here and there, and Kuroshio will happily put up for a photo op to authenticate your sumo eating experience.  Contrary to popular belief, chanko nabe is actually very healthy. Containing fish, chicken, meatballs and tofu while also brimming with vegetables such as leek, carrot, peppers and mushrooms, it’s cooked in a dashi stock flavoured with either soy sauce or miso. However, a pot usually consumed by four diners would be eaten up by a single sumo wrestler. Kuroshio uses white barley miso for the stock – something that gives the soup a slightly sweet flavour. The fish varies depending on the season but is always included in generous chunks. Chicken is the sole kind of meat used, as it’s firmly believed that sumo wrestlers should only eat animals with two legs – to help them remain standing in the heat of a bout, of course.  Considering the sumo-sized portions, we recommend bringing both a large group and a true rikishi attitude. You’re guaranteed warm service and a relaxed atmosphere with plenty of sumo memorabilia. 

At this hidden Shintomicho gem, you're in for delicate and colourful meals prepared by an itamae with 15 years of experience in New York City (plus 13 in Japan, but he barely mentions it). Easy on the eye, uncompromisingly seasonal and ambitiously out-there in terms of flavours, chef Suzuki's cuisine feels almost underpriced – despite the fact you need to shell out a flat ¥10,000 (plus tax) for the omakase, the only option on the menu. This deal is composed of ten or so seasonal dishes, which draw on influences from French, Italian and fusion styles while remaining very Japanese both in terms of preparation techniques and presentation. On our visit, Suzuki's autumn menu included creations like marinated and grilled sanma (Pacific saury) and fresh ginkgo nut jam.

Upon entering this 92-year-old establishment, you’re immediately smacked with the intense smell of beef stew, simmered for who knows how many hours. The recognisable ‘Yamariki aroma’ makes its presence felt on each of the three levels (and stairwell) of this shitamachi classic, where the speciality is, of course, nikomi. Cooked in a huge cauldron-like cask iron pot, it gets its unique flavour from beef tendons simmered in a miso-based broth from 9am until last orders at 10pm. The intensity of the soup and tenderness of the beef increase over time, so you’re sure to note a significant difference between a bowl ordered at 5pm and one called for at 9pm. Nikomi is usually served with rice, but Yamariki opts for the more sophisticated accompaniment of crusty slices of garlic-rubbed French baguette for mopping up the rich juices.  Besides the hearty signature dish, you can order typical izakaya fare like yakiton (pork skewers) with soy or salt, sashimi, tofu and pickled vegetables. Large bottles of chilli-infused liquid are scattered all over the joint; upon closer inspection, we realised that this is actually a vodka mix that can be added to the nikomi – or pretty much any dish – to give it a special kick. Be warned, it packs a punch. English menus are available, but the restaurant only takes cash.