Smalls is a tiny, cerulean-painted restaurant with a few tall chairs lining a narrow ledge—and that’s it. If you want to properly dive into trays of brisket, fried chicken, St. Louis ribs or pulled pork at the restaurant, you’ll need to stand up and hope that everyone else decided to take their orders to go. You can also head next door to eat at Lizard’s Liquid Lounge (because barbecue is even better with beer). The barbecue sauce has Asian tinges, such as the soy, banana ketchup, garlic and Mexican 7-Up glaze on the meaty ribs. There’s also the “tiger cry sauce,” a fish sauce-based dip for the beef brisket, which falls apart into tender shards. But the sauce isn’t even necessary when the brisket is this good—you might just dig in with your hands.