June 2010
It was always only a matter of time before a savvy entrepreneur worked it out: ‘Hang on a minute, Malaysians love British pubs and fish and chippies, and Malaysians love to drink, so why don’t we open a trendy British bistro-bar to cater to the trendy young ‘uns who’re missing their boarding school nosh but who wouldn’t be caught dead in a pub?!’
Firstly, my apologies to the owners of Albion for my sweeping assumptions: their business acumen is surely far more erudite than the shallow logic culled from my flimsy Reasons To Open A Bistro-Bar 101 manual, but I imagine there must be a lot of happy expats and recently-returned-from-abroad Malaysians who are rubbing their hands in glee even as they read this.
And why not? All the indicators point to success for this modern but cosy, simple but charming, British bistro-bar. The well-appointed address and the well-spoken and informed staff are two huge pluses in its favour. Throw a dollop of tasty British classics into the fray, and it’s easy to see why Albion won’t be passing us unnoticed like a silent ship in the night.
Sure, the chorizo à la plancha and the spinach and ricotta dumplings are incontrovertibly un-British, but both hail from a selection of tasty — albeit Continental — dishes that shows that Albion is much more than just a one-trick pony.
Nevertheless it’s the Brit-fare that works best. The ubiquitous fish and chips and macaroni and cheese are both present and very much accounted for. While the former had a skin thicker than Jerry Skinner, the fish was flaky, fresh and tasty, and easily passed the taste test. The macaroni and cheese however wins the ‘ultimate comfort food’ trophy hands down. You could argue that macaroni and cheese isn’t exactly culinary science, but who said your palate was Marie Curie in the first place? It’s taste that matters, and taste is what you’ll get in spades, not just from the lashings of (real!) bacon and leek, but also from the more than generous use of cheese which puts this dish into strong contention against raclette for heaviest lunch ever.
Fair-ish prices, ample eye candy and a comprehensive drinks menu ensure you’ll still want to go to Albion even if you’re on a diet. Fay Khoo
Awards
Albion KL was shortlisted in the Best European category of the Time Out KL Food Awards 2012. It was shortlisted Best Continental Restaurant in the Time Out KL Food Awards 2011. The restaurant won Best Independent Restaurant in 2010 and was also shortlisted in the Best New Restaurant category in the same year. Our food awards are 100% voted for by the people of KL. This way, we guarantee that popularity and consistent performance is rewarded.