November 2009
Before I went to eat at Sutraa I was a little confused. I had two friends who had visited, one who promised me it was an Indian restaurant, the other swearing blind it was a nightclub/bar. To be honest, even after eating there I’m not sure which it truly is.
In some cases – such as twentyone a few doors up – that doesn’t really matter. But twentyone is an exception rather than the rule. A rule that Sutraa seems to adhere to. Much of the food was good, some very good. But lots more seemed to betray the fact that their owners are perhaps more concerned with selling bottles of whisky, rum and vodka to young folk looking to party. And the same could be said of the often inattentive staff and too-bold decoration.
But, lest this gets too negative, let’s have a special word about their curries and specifically their gravies. Sutraa shares an owner with Pride of India and that expertise clearly shows in several of their creations. The thicker, North Indian curry dishes were rich and packed with flavour. The meat was well-cooked and, again, flavoursome, so – while I still pine for the likes of New Moghul House and the outlet formerly on the Sutraa lot, Ghazal – I’d still rather eat here than miss out on my Indian fix altogether, which is the sad situation facing Changkat Bukit Bintang diners. Especially given the continuing rise and new openings that seem to emerge almost weekly on that street. Michelle Whytcross