The Point sits in the company of some of our city’s best restaurant-and-bar types that have put the genre to good use – Mezze and Vintry. On those grounds, I find myself grappling with the fact that it couldn’t be less like the stalwart duo – The Point’s club-like palette of gold and black borders on tacky while it lacks the sort of personalisation one expects at a place like this. But my qualms are easily made up for with the dinner menu – modern European dishes are cleverly upgraded with Japanese flourishes in a petite list of entrées and mains. It’s not the first time KL has been witness to this coupling of cuisines but The Point’s menu is far more invigorating than Japanese-inspired pastas and panko-crusted meats.
The proof is in the entrées. The seared Hokkaido scallops with cauliflower purée and yakitori sauce is plumped up by a scattering of fried lap cheong crumbs; the lobster bun takes from the Maine classic with the addition of mentaiko; the tonkatsu-style duck croquettes are dressed with bonito flakes; and most grandly, the signature Scotch eggs are a hot, crisp take on the proper version, beautified with a modern touch I find difficult to oppose – a liquefied yolk.
The mains cover all the obligatory options – duck leg, lamb rack, pan-seared fish and an Angus shoo-in. To go with the plot, they come bathed and dressed in flavours that once again reflect the chef’s style of play in his culinary sandbox – pork belly with crumbed terrine with ginger and coriander sauce; twice-cooked duck leg in soy mirin broth; slow-cooked chicken with bacon jam and lemongrass sauce. The miso lamb rack with pumpkin purée and tonkatsu sauce is a standout – the meat is cooked to a perfect flush just before it hits medium rare, the accompanying pulled lamb croquette is warm, threadlike and melting, and the pumpkin acts as a sweet, creamed bed for the lamb to frolic on.
Unfortunately, similar praise cannot be given to The Point’s execution of brunch. While I welcome Jamon and bacon jam in the (all-too-frequent) event of a hangover, they’re incorporated into big breakfast plates and sandwiches with little gusto. The chicken karaage burger with a mulch of bacon bits is one such incident – the chicken is limp and underseasoned, the sunny-side-up egg stares back at me with its one hardened eye, the sesame-crusted bun seems to have been picked out from a plastic packet of six, and the bacon calls out to be rescued. Paired with the disquieting setting of a club at 11am, the restaurant’s brunch addition is a victim of its own zeal, and ultimately, it’s a shame for a place with so much dinner-time promise.
|Venue name:||The Point||Contact:|
First & Second Floor
122 Jalan Kasah
|Opening hours:||Mon–Tue, 5pm–1am; Wed–Sat, 11.30am–2pm, 5pm–1am|