A meal at Natalina begins with bread. It’s Italian focaccia baked from a Roman recipe passed down from (now executive) chef Diego Reali’s mother, served with three dips: black olive paste, salsa verde, and tomato paste. It sets the tone: this is a modern Roman joint that allows seasonality to shine through simple preparations, and of course, service with old-school charm, which is no surprise given the hospitality guns running the show (read: Cinnamon Group). It honors nonnas and mammas; the current chef de cuisine Stefano La Penna is inspired by his grandmother’s cooking, while Natalina is named after Frank Sinatra’s mother.
On the antipasti side of things there’s eggplant parmigiana; mini-octopus in puttanesca sauce; and vitello tonnato, a Piedmontese entrée of slow-cooked veal covered with a delicate tuna foam and fried capers. Then comes the pasta. You might order the classic fettuccine al ragu with a contemporary twist: fresh beetroot fettuccine tossed in a duck white ragout, dusted with black olives. Pizza is always a good idea. The big specials here are seafood and steaks from the Josper grill. Wagyu striploins served with charred broccolini and truffle sauce feature alongside marinated roast spring chicken, whole wild baby fish, and more. Finish with something sweet, like Italian ice cream or the torta di ricotta with custard cream, meringue, and strawberries.