Used heavily in Penang food (rojak and laksa, for example), the thick, dark brown har gou is the defining characteristic of Penang-style chee cheong fun. The pleasant contrast between the sweet, umami gooey har gou sauce and smooth rice noodles makes for a strangely addictive dish that’s a testament to the versatility of the chee cheong fun. Try the dish at the Penang Chee Cheong Fun stall at O&S Restaurant in Taman Paramount. Manning the stall is Alor Setar native Chew Sing San, who learnt to make chee cheong fun from his Penangite uncle. Now in his sixties, he has been honing the craft for more than 30 years. Chew says that he imports pots of prawn paste from Penang, but the key lies in the adjustment of the taste and texture of his har gou using a personal family recipe.