It’s not easy to get a seat in Tony Conigliaro’s flagship bar without booking. Punters come for the outstanding cocktails – some of which may push the boundaries of what can be put in a glass, but they always maintain the drinkability of the classics. Take the Terroir, for instance, which lists as its ingredients ‘distilled clay, flint and lichen’, and tastes wonderfully like a chilled, earthy, minerally vodka. It’s made in the upstairs laboratory, which also produces bespoke cocktail ingredients such as Guinness reduction, paprika bitters, rhubarb cordial and pine-infused gin. There’s a subtle jazz-age vibe in the small, low-lit room and – on certain nights – a pianist belts out swinging standards.