'Bull in a China Shop’ – a strange name for a bar, with its connotations of crashing-around clumsiness. And when you read their website, it does little to alleviate fears: ‘Our menu boasts eggs benedict, superfood salads, charcoal bun sandwiches, and Asian-spiced whisky glazed rotisserie chicken. Our bar serves an extensive selection of over 30 rare and premium whiskies, hailing from Japan and Scotland.’ Yet despite such a smash and grab of influences, Bull works.
The spirits selection makes it a proper whisky destination – it has more Japanese whiskies than anywhere I’ve seen in London, from the cool Nikka From the Barrel to rare Karuizawa bottlings. There are some brilliant Scotches too, and a list of inventive whisky cocktails (a Wabi/Sabi at £12 was made with Hakushu single malt, vermouth, green tea syrup and black walnut bitters).
The Bull’s menu, with its breakfast-to-late-night diversity, has a lot of good stuff on it. The rotisserie chicken is brined with ginger, marinated in yogurt and grilled with that whisky glaze – it’s great, although served in an annoying mess-style enamel bowl that makes it hard to cut. Most humans – civilians, at least – prefer to eat off plates. Remember that, restaurateurs.
No bull: this Bull is a great place and a destination for whisky fans. All breakages, however, must be paid for.