Cato is a tale of two bars. You’ll arrive at what they’re calling The House of Julep, a lively, chatter-filled space on the ground floor with dark wood, garnet-painted walls, and the pleasant rattle of cocktail shakers. Here, the vibe is relaxed, jovial, and on a Thursday evening it feels like the merry hum of a pub has been transplanted into the swankier body of a sultry bar.
In the basement, you leave the hubbub behind to find a much more intimate space, draped in scarlet velvet. This is Cato, a name inspired by freedman and pioneer of American cocktail culture Cato Alexander. Classic disco plays as we snack on pretzels, olives, and airy focaccia while browsing the menu, which is organised by colour. Inspired by the colour-coded brain phenomenon of synesthesia, it includes 14 different cocktails which contain ingredients sourced exclusively from UK suppliers.
The standouts? If you fancy something ‘Brown’, then Chestnut + Brown Butter is an exquisite, earthy, very savoury combination of aged rum, Balvenie 14 Year Old Caribbean Cask, brown butter, caramelised chicken broth ‘brown’ rum, and chestnut praline. The most impressive was undoubtedly Wasabi + Mustard Greens, where ginger and honey shrub, foraged mustard greens and mustard leaf tincture mixed with gin and English wasabi distillate make for a refreshing, slightly fiery zinger of a cocktail.
Order this
Don’t sleep on The House of Julep’s menu. Go for The Oyster House Martini – it’s a pellucid blend of Ford’s London Dry Gin, Vault Coastal Vermouth, rock oyster shells and dill oil.
Time Out tip
You don’t have to stick to the bars’ respective menus – if you’re keen to try something from the upstairs menu while you’re downstairs, the team will gladly oblige.