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Please note, Cocteleria is now closed. Time Out Editors, October 2019.
I can’t stop thinking about the Horchata Martini at Breddos. The Soho branch of the modern taqueria has turned its basement into a bar that plays with trad Mexican flavours in the same way as on its inventive food menu. The bar itself has enough mustard stools for eight, and tables round the room offer space for more punters to check out these clever cocktails.
The founders of Breddos pride themselves on the time they’ve spent in Oaxaca, Yucatán and Mexico City, which gives their food and drink authenticity, even when it’s cleverly mashed with European flavours. The decor reflects this influence – with bright signage and prints on the walls, it’s more modern Mexico City than old-school cantina. A big lightbox declares the bar a ‘mezcaleria’, although tequila does seem to dominate (but you can get the party started with a mezcal boilermaker, should you wish).
Margaritas are a given – including a £6 frozen marg barg – with six twists on the classic. A grilled pineapple and a cherry-and-rosemary version showed off in-your-face and delicate flavours respectively. Micheladas didn’t live up to the beer cocktails I’ve tried in Mexico, although the spice mix was hefty and would please any bloody mary lover. You’re best off avoiding them if you’re ordering food, though – mine obliterated my tastebuds for a hot minute. A few of the restaurant’s dishes are on the menu and are not to be missed, including the much-adored masa fried chicken taco.
Finish with the Horchata Martini, a lethal weapon that masks its alcohol with sweet, addictive flavours. The combo of tequila with coffee, crème de cacao and heavenly horchata (a Mexican agua fresca made from rice, almonds and cinnamon) makes the ultimate festive drink. Put down the eggnog immediately.