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On a cold autumn evening, a taproom might not seem like the obvious destination for a drink. There are no roaring fireplaces, the trestle tables that adorn any outside areas have long been stowed away, and the industrial setting can feel a bit cold – both literally and figuratively. But the warm welcome at Fourpure’s new taproom makes up for its lack of log burners.
Located on an industrial estate, past rival builders’ merchants Screwfix and Toolstation, Fourpure is technically part of Bermondsey’s renowned Beer Mile – although it’s on the outer reaches compared to other breweries rubbing shoulders along Enid and Druid Streets. But there are enough beers to explore in plenty of space that you won’t want to hop to a rival right away.
There was a low-level midweek buzz that belied the taproom’s rather remote location. All the booths were occupied with groups, and although the mezzanine level and its accompanying Wednesday night quiz was rather bare, the huge space had a cosy feel.
After choosing from the 20-strong beer list, we settled into a slightly off-brand beach bar-style hanging seat and set to sampling. The Easy Peeler (£5.10 for a pint) was so flavourful I half expected to see some orange peel floating in it, while the Star City DIPA collab with Nunhead’s all-female brewery Mothership (£4.50 for a schooner) had a complex profile for a beer so strong. Sip this in a swinging chair and good luck prising yourself out of it at the end.