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There are two ways to turn a Victorian-era London pub into a restaurant. You can source some edifying sausages, hang two dozen pendant lights, expose some brickwork and call it a gastropub. Or you can choose violence: invite two Michelin-level bruisers to collaborate in the kitchen and also oversee a total refurbishment and no-expense-spared restoration. No prizes for guessing which option Marc ‘Mare Street Market’ Francis-Baum has opted for.
I can’t remember the last time a venue made such a good first impression. It was like meeting my fiance all over again. The George & Dragon (FKA The Peasant) is a Grade II*-listed masterpiece, with intricate mosaic floors and walls which, when combined with dark-wood paneling, tastefully scream ‘you are now inside an exceptional pub’. Up an unassuming, creaky staircase, the dining room’s double-height ceilings, white linen and snooker table-sized windows all suggest Extremely Talented Chefs are lurking nearby.
Said dining room is where Island plies its trade. It’s a surf-and-turf concept with Brad Carter and Tom Brown acting as Mr Meat and Mr Fish, respectively. Theirs is a confidently symmetrical menu (four starters, four mains, four sides, four desserts) and there was nary a miss the night we visited. Most unexpected hit: a slow-cooked beetroot starter that left me speechless. Served with a green sauce and mushroom salsa, the dish looks like Heath Ledger’s Joker, but don’t let that put you off. This is a soft-and-sweet symphony, complimented by the counterpoint of a sharp, herbaceous sauce. Then there’s the lamb and clam skewer, a startlingly rectangular dish that rams home the restaurant’s overarching concept. Lamb belly is a fatty, flavourful cut that combines nicely with the smooth salinity of clam.
I can’t remember the last time a venue made such a good first impression.
For mains I played it safe and went for the commitment-phobic ‘bit of everything’ mixed grill for £42. I was served a russet-y spread of prawns, scallops, seared steak, lamb chops, exquisite sausages and spiced chicken wings. That might sound like an influencer-baiting ‘righteous bucket of man meat’ type thing, but in reality the platter was a tastefully assembled, surprisingly delicate marvel. Both in terms of presentation and flavour it was a bit like a barbecue over at God’s house. Slime-green key-lime pie for dessert was just tart enough, but obviously anyone with room to spare should opt for the four-layer chocolate cake (modelled, believably, on the massive one in Matilda). A slice of cake so tall that it almost sits at eye level, this aesthetically perfect beast-mode bake will not be denied.
Like an infuriatingly talented athlete, George & Dragon has all the natural advantages: two famous chefs, a leafy Clerkenwell locale and a show-stopping pub space. However, there’s nothing more common than squandered talent, so it’s with great pleasure that I can report this place makes full use of its considerable gifts.
The vibe A beautifully refurbished Victorian pub with a separate first-floor restaurant that feels the same but also completely different.
The food Surf-and-turf cooking from Tom Brown and Brad Carter, with seafood, carefully sourced meat and a few unpredictable pairings.
The drink The pub downstairs is where you go for a pint, while the upstairs restaurant is geared towards wine and cocktails.
Time Out tip Make sure you have time for a pint downstairs before dinner - also check out the heroic Sunday roast.