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There are advantages to drinking in hotel bars. There’s that feeling of exclusivity, as is the case at The Hyde Bar, an elegant yet cosy space on the ground floor of the boutique Royal Park Hotel. And of course there are the fancy free snacks, which would set you back a pretty penny in any other establishments. But top of the disadvantages list is the high price tag, particularly with a service charge whacked on top. That’s again the case at The Hyde, where three drinks came to £44, which rose to 50p short of £50 for placing drinks on a tray and taking three steps to our table. The bar is tiny in size, a room that can only seat 12, although money has clearly been spent on the decor and a huge mirror behind the bar adds space to the room.
Did those drinks live up to the price? Not really. Despite its billing as a luxury cocktail bar, it’s more dedicated to spirits than cocktails – over 60 whiskies, 21 gins and 16 rums are available to the connoisseur at some quite extortionate prices. By contrast, there are just four house cocktails alongside four martinis. The Lola’s Sip was sweet and fruity, the Kong heavy on coffee and banana liqueur with a faint – too faint – hint of habanero syrup.
Perhaps sensing our disappointment, staff mixed up off-menu classics. A sazerac came with an intriguingly large ball of ice, but was light on aroma and absinthe. The bar itself begs to be sat at and the Sinatra et al jazz soundtrack will get your feet tapping, but unfortunately The Hyde isn’t a destination bar just yet.