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In décor alone the Zetter Townhouse hotel is exceptional: every surface has something old and lovely on it, like an eccentric collector’s country house. The result is one of the most beautiful and unusual bars in London.
The short cocktail list was devised by Tony Conigliaro (of 69 Colebrooke Row, Grain Store and Bar Termini), who is known for his experimental techniques and ingredients, but drinks here are fairly simple and restrained. And wonderful. The crowd is always a mix of hotel residents and outsiders, and the generous table spacing affords plenty of privacy. Bruno Loubet’s bar food is a decisive cut above the norm. Booking is always advisable, and essential for larger parties and at weekends.