Waterfront

Its appearance in keeping with the swish, neutral look of the show apartments and community facilities of Battersea Reach (‘defining riverside living with style’) around it, this well-conceived place is atypical of the Young’s stable.

It feels 21st-century, for a start, with floods of natural light coming from the river-facing floor-to-ceiling windows, beyond which is a decked terrace. Regrettably, the opposite bank is an eyesore.

Even so, tucked far away from a busy Wandsworth roundabout, between two Thames bridges, this seems like a world unto itself. The furniture helps: the bar stools are practically armchairs on stilts, the clock is Grand Central Station massive and the images of waterside life are nicely chosen.

Along with the standard Young’s beers, there’s Leffe and Peroni; wines are also common to the brand, and both affordable and acceptable.