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London is awash with washing-themed launches. Coin Laundry promises retro eats in Exmouth Market, Machine No 3 does cocktails in a former Hackney launderette, Chinese Laundry serves home-style Chinese in Islington. And now Wringer & Mangle presents all-day drinking and dining in London Fields’ The Laundry building. Did we miss the memo? Does London need to whiten up? Are we afflicted by a dearth of Daz, a paucity of Persil?
The Wringer & Mangle’s Laundry building is best known for its role in east London’s clubbing scene, and fortunately the basement (just called Mangle) will still pack in the parties. But the upstairs bar and dancefloor has been spruced up to make a space for 250 covers (with a heated terrace, too).
It’s possible the building has scrubbed up a little too well; white chalk paint, climbing vines and laundry-themed bits and bobs give Wringer & Mangle the look of a soulless, ‘shabby chic’ central London spot offering Bottomless Brunch. In fact, that’s one of the few things this venue doesn’t do: it serves lunch, dinner, afternoon tea and Sunday roast. All alongside a list of 30 collins-style cocktails: who knew the classic gin drink was so versatile?
On further inspection, perhaps it’s not worth slicing and dicing in so many ways. The Quick Spin Collins tasted like just that, a lemony-fresh and unappealing mix of sherbet, elderflower and prosecco with gin. Much better was a Pistachio Collins: ginger, honey soda and lime, served long with a nutty green topping. All are priced at £10 a pop, a little dear for what was produced on our visit.
Behind the venture is Gerry Calabrese, owner of Hoxton Gin and once-zeitgeisty party spot Hoxton Pony. It can feel like Wringer & Mangle’s casting the net a bit wide, but it’s Calabrese’s most mature operation to date. And don’t fret. There’s still fun to be had among those collinses even if the menu needs some ironing out.