Radicals & Victuallers
Time Out says
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With a name that doesn't so much trip off the tongue as fall flat upon its face before it even reaches the 'sweet' section, this huge drinking and dining den has taken over what was an O'Neills on Upper Street. Instead of the Old Country, it now represents the New World, with a menu of – what else – US diner classics. Hot dogs, wings, ribs and burgers are all here, and all served in plastic baskets upon greaseproof paper. A dash of originality comes with the – let's say – 'unusual' toppings such as pickled onion Monster Munch, Nik Naks and peanut butter. The more conventional serves we tried were actually a cut above most in a city now packed with burger-and-wings-slingers.
It's set up for the after-work drinking crowd, and for that R&V fits the bill – a decent selection of craft beers, real ales, wines and party-time cocktails. And as Angel boozing barns go, it's tastefully done, with a pleasant little outdoor area at the side and lots of space for groups or those seeking a bit of privacy.
Having visited, we're none the wiser about the origins of the name, but it's doubtful that even matters. Radical it certainly isn't, but its victuals aren't bad.
Reviewed by Euan Ferguson