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Molé Taco Bar
On the backstreets of Marylebone you tend to find chain restaurants, age-old institutions and little else. So this modern indie taco station on a side road round that way is as welcome as a lake in the Mexican desert. And holy molé, the staff are nice, sharing recommendations from the menu of Mexican standards. Unsurprisingly, this mostly comprised tacos. They’re good, though – if not, at £8 for two, the cheapest – with soft shells made from scratch on site, heartily loaded with toppings. The most successful of the variations we tried was the cochinita pibil, with tender pulled pork and pink pickled onions. Baja fish tacos featured nicely battered pollock and an enjoyably sharp slaw that cut through it all. The soft- shell crab option was a little ill-conceived, with prickly battered legs jutting rudely out from the tortilla wrapping. Nevertheless, all were neatly presented, with zigzags of salsa and coriander leaves prettily scattered. The interior is a bit wild, with modern graffiti murals – but grab a seat on the curb in the summer and pretend you’re in Mexico City.
