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Elsa Pereira, food critic and Theatre editor at Time Out Paris, on Le 110 de Taillevent:
Elegant design and genuine French cuisine go hand in hand at the Gardinier brothers' new brasserie. One hundred and ten wines from the Taillevent vaults are on offer at the brasserie, and are skilfully matched to the cooking, with four wines at various price levels recommended for each dish. Impressive as this is, it's impossible not to appreciate the perfectly matched decor created by architect Pierre-Yves Rochon. Wholesome oak abounds, with emerald green flasksarranged in wooden racks, gilded frescoes of vineyards painted by Thierry Bruet and black and white photographs of grape-pickers hung on the walls; it's an ode to vineyards and the scent of wine barrels.
When it comes to the food, as befits a wine-worshipper's paradise chef Emile Cotte's menu concentrates on flavour and aroma, with things like golden, crispy calamari topped with fine slices of chorizo and Espelette pepper, roasted duckling and caramelised endives with gingerbread, or for dessert, iced nougat melting beneath strawberries spiked with balsamic vinegar.
Le 110 de Taillevent. 195 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8e, Paris, France. +33 1 40 74 20 20. www.taillevent.com/les-110-de-taillevent-brasserie.
More on Le 110 de Taillevent from Time Out Paris