Pioneering couturière, and Nazi sympathiser: the V&A’s latest fashion blockbuster tells the story of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s revolutionary designs, and the wartime ventures which still eclipse her legacy.
Think Chanel, and you think of stern, boxy silhouettes, maybe of the legendary No. 5 perfume, but this substantial retrospective is a gentle guide through her whole design journey. A timeline documenting Chanel’s life greets you at the start. It paints a picture of triumph over challenging circumstances; the story of a girl from humble beginnings who worked her way up to establishing one of the world’s biggest fashion brands.
An unassuming, cream silk blouse stands alone in the first room, where the designer’s early life is documented. We learn that as the daughter of a travelling salesman, who lost her mother at the age of 11, Chanel learned to sew from two nuns at a convent before finding work as a seamstress alongside her aunt. The visitor is ushered through Chanel’s experiments in textile design, alongside some rolling footage of her launching British Chanel, but it's not long until we reach the skillfully curated collections of clothes that the V&A does so well. The stuff we’re really here for.
The collection of garments is stunning in its artistry
The collection of garments, from early, uncharacteristically flouncy dresses, all the way to the sharp, luxurious practicality of the Chanel suit, is not only impressive in its scale, but stunning in its artistry. An immaculately executed corduroy dress proves Chanel’s ability to craft elegant gowns wasn’t limited by humble materials.
The two-tiered display room dedicated to suits alone makes this exhibition worth a visit for anyone. Dresses, jackets, accessories, fragrances and jewellery, which act as markers for each decade of her immense career, have been preserved to a remarkable quality, and are mesmerising in their detail.
Though the clothes are where the detail is concentrated, there’s plenty of Coco’s life on display too, including documents detailing her involvement in the Second World War. There’s evidence of her relationships, not only with German spy Hans Günther von Dincklage, but also Hugh Grosvenor, the former Duke of Westminster (who was convinced of a Jewish plot to ‘destroy Christian civilisation’). However, previously unseen evidence documents Chanel’s involvement in the French resistance are displayed too, leaving viewers to interpret the impact of her war-era actions on her legacy in fashion for themselves.
This show makes for a comprehensive examination of the work and craft of Gabrielle Chanel, it deals with some of the trickier questions about her morality, but elegantly chronicles her undeniable, innovative talent. It’s enough to make anyone go loco for Coco.
