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8 Station Terrace (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Contemporary European Kensal Rise

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, 8 Station Terrace is now closed. Time Out Food & Drink editors, June 2016.

Brilliant Kids Café held their last children's party few months ago, vacating this site for a more grown-up neighbourhood spot.

It’s now a brasserie serving breakfasts, Sunday brunches and roasts, and Square Mile coffee. Snacks include sausage rolls, leek and goat’s cheese tart with salad, or soup. In the evening the tempo shifts a bit, with the odd table occupied by parties of convivial drinkers, but the majority of customers are local residents grateful for a cosy new place to eat.

The brief menu is modern without being slavish to fashion, and more Nigel than Jamie. A salad of lentils, spinach leaves, green beans, hazelnuts, roasted beetroot and feta perhaps had one ingredient too many, but the result was nonetheless pleasing and, at £7 for a generous portion, good value.

A risotto of fresh peas, broad beans, mint and parmesan wasn’t the sort of dish you’d impress a north Italian with, but for home-style cooking, it was well made and only cost £8.

The rest of the menu follows the simple-but-satisfying route: steak sandwich, lamb rump with rösti, grilled sea bream fillet with salsa verde and roast tomatoes.

Our prune and almond tart (£4) was a decent version, though the scoop of clotted cream accompanying it could have been more generous.

The wine list is brief – perhaps too brief – with six low-priced wines sold by the glass. But these are served in tumblers not proper stemware, which cramps the wine bouquets – so there’s no point in spending on better wines anyway.

The real appeal of 8 Station Terrace is that it’s affordable and has a good atmosphere, helped along by smiling but rather amateur service. When the lights are turned down and the music not too intrusive – the delightful Felix Laband and Nuyorican Soul playing on our visit – it’s a neighbourhood place you’re happy to linger in.

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Details

Address: 8 Station Terrace
London
NW10 5RT
Transport: Tube: Kensal Rise rail
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