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Agile Rabbit

Restaurants, Italian Brixton
3 out of 5 stars
AgileRabbitNEW.jpg
Photograph: Tricia de Courcy Ling

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

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A Brixton Village outpost of the small independent pizza chain.

Dinner in Brixton Market means three things: cheap prices, no-frills decor and an energetic vibe that buzzes harder than a bee on MDMA. And the Brixton Village outpost of small independent pizza chain Agile Rabbit lives up to expectations. Amidst DIY interiors encompassing home-made shelving units, the air is heavy with conscious ’90s hip hop and young couples in matching lumberjack shirts clinking Brixton Beer bottles.

The pizzas are impressive, with a scamorza-topped five-cheese option having an enjoyably crisp base and a four seasons calzone proving a puffy beast decorated with pleasing char marks. It was filled so generously that sliding a knife through it left its serving board so covered with red sauce it looked like a homicide scene. Less accomplished were the supplementary options, with small plates proving either disappointing – dry and flimsy garlic bread, buffalo mozzarella salad with chewily claggy cheese – or non-existent, with two of the three salads and an advertised dessert of ‘sweet pizza’ unavailable.

However, this clearly isn’t a venue that’s intended for a proper sit-down meal. On a Friday night visit, it only started to get busy at 9.30pm as people arrived to drink shots at the bar or order takeout pizza by the slice from the counter. Frankly, at £2.50-£3.50 a slice for an impressively topped, crispy offering, it’s not hard to see why this venue’s real strength lies in its takeaway service.

Details

Address: Unit 24, Brixton Village Market
Coldharbour Lane
London
SW9 8PR
Transport: Tube: Brixton
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £65.
Contact:
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