What started three years ago as an occasional supper club and nomadic pop-up has now put down permanent roots. Taking over a former corner shop in the heart of Brixton is All Roads, the culinary project from Jamaican couple Melika Green and Paschelle Brown. It feels less like a formal opening and more like an extension of their living room - on my visit, Green’s mother was sitting at the bar finishing her dessert.
Shrimp is drenched in creole butter
Inside, the exposed brick walls, glossy teal tiles and open kitchen give the room a lived-in warmth, and soft R&B tunes hum in the background. The menu takes soul food of the American south as its starting point, filtered through the couple’s mixed Caribbean heritage, European travels and decades spent working across London’s restaurant scene.
My personal standout was the sweet tea and herb-brined chicken wings. Boasting a crisp, golden coating that gives way to aromatic, juicy flavours, they are served with adobo mayo and the option of sharp, vinegary Louisiana hot sauce to cut through the richness.
The seafood is equally addictive. Chilli clams are bathed in a sweet soy-tomato broth, and finished with shaved parmesan and salty pancetta, while shrimp is drenched in a creole butter that captures both a coconutty sweetness and a lingering prawn-head umami. For larger plates, the chef’s recommendation is the lamb ribs. Lacquered in a sticky barbecue glaze and scattered with pomegranate seeds, the tender meat and charred edges offer a smoky sweetness in a fatty, satisfying bite.
With years of hospitality training and months of careful interior planning, Green and Brown have ensured every detail feels effortless yet intentional. All Roads is the kind of intimate, welcoming space that makes you want to stay long after the plates are cleared.
The vibe Stylish dining with homely, welcoming service - ideal for dates.
The food Southern soul food reinterpreted through Caribbean and European influences, balancing smoke, sweetness and comfort.
The drink Thoughtfully constructed cocktails drawing on Green’s experience creating drinks menus for Daddy Bao and Cafe Kowloon.
Time Out tip Ask about the ‘house pot’ - an ever-changing communal stew, inspired by the comforting oxtail or lamb neck simmering in every auntie’s kitchen.