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Alpes aptly sits at the summit of a staircase in funky shipping container park Pop Brixton. Outside there are blankets and stools; inside you’ll find retro skis on the wood-panelled walls. It’s all very après ski.
This bistro, the first permanent restaurant from street food supremos the Raclette Brothers, is a showcase of Alpine favourites including tartiflette, fondue and raclette. Cheese is the headline act. The fondue savoyarde (gruyère, emmental, raclette) arrived in a cavernous saucepan, with a mini stove to keep the cheese warm. It was unctuous, molten brilliance (enlivened with touches of garlic and white wine). It comes with unlimited warm bread for dunking, plus some nicely sharp, vinegary gherkins.
Sides are equally humble: a plate of charcuterie for the carnivores; a bowl of splendidly salted garlic potatoes for any veggies. Alpes also has a selection of resort-inspired small plates. The rösti – aka a Swiss hash brown – was crisp and delicious. It came topped with garlicky wild mushrooms, the heads flopping around like the buds on Apple earphones. Austrian pork schnitzel had a breadcrumb crust and a moist middle, plus a refreshing celeriac remoulade. It’s a pity that it barely does desserts, because the sole offering, a creme brûlée, impressed. It also doesn’t really cater for vegans (a French bean salad was the only option). But for cheese lava, Alpes can’t be beaten. Just don’t think about the calories.