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Balthazar

  • Restaurants
  • Covent Garden
  • Recommended
Balthazar
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Time Out says

A polished imitation of a New York institution - itself an interpretation of a buzz-tastic French brasserie. Booking essential.

In early 2013, Keith McNally’s much-anticipated NYC import Balthazar finally opened, and London got to see what this Manhattan interpretation of a French brasserie was actually like. The response was positive, and for weeks afterwards it was hard to get a table.

Chef Robert Reid has tinkered little with the nostalgic transatlantic menu, and we loved signature dishes such as the onion soup (grilled gruyère lid on thick country bread, immersed in a rich and sweet chicken stock); duck shepherd’s pie was another powerfully flavoured treat. More recently, some of the gloss seems to have worn off (though service remains prompt and friendly).

The cheeseburger, no bargain at £17, was a chunky patty but had little flavour, and needed more than the limited, bland trimmings to give it an oomph that might have justified the price tag. A pleasant gruyère and herb omelette tasted as though it had lingered a little too long at the pass.

Best was pavlova (one of several delightfully retro desserts) – it may not have looked like a classic version (the meringue sat on the fruit, rather than the other way round), but it tasted good.

Bread, from master baker Jon Rolfe, is a must-try. Balthazar London mimics the New York original perfectly, with red awnings, red leather banquettes, giant antiqued mirrored walls and mosaic floors, but to British eyes, the decor can look a little too close to any old chain brasserie.

Details

Address:
4-6 Russell Street
London
WC2B 5HZ
Transport:
Tube: Covent Garden tube
Opening hours:
Monday to Thursday 7.30am - 11.30pm Friday 7.30am - Midnight Saturday 9am - Midnight Sunday 9am - 11pm
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