First came the truck. Two more locations followed: a Spitalfields kiosk, then a proper Victoria fast-food joint. Now comes the burger joint’s third permanent setup, this time in the Bloomberg Arcade: a hop, skip and jump from Mansion House station.
Some folks gripe at the lack of subtlety in Bleecker’s burgers, every last mouthful hitting your palate in a freight train of fat, salt and grease. To my mind, that’s like watching ‘Love Island’ and bemoaning the lack of Shakespearean verse. Go elsewhere for sophistication. My bacon double cheeseburger was perfectly complimented with a side of ‘angry fries’ that, loaded with a blend of hot sauce and blue cheese, were – to use the culinary parlance – a pisshead’s dream. But this isn’t exactly a cosy destination: it’s harshly lit, and the scant seats are too cheek-by-jowl to make you want to settle down with your food.
Really, this is a takeout spot best suited to a ravenous City crowd who could take their patties and milkshakes back to their desks, or get them delivered to the office when pulling a late one. Actually, this outpost of Bleecker makes me genuinely grateful I don’t work in the Square Mile: the regular temptation would be too much to bear.