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With the recent proliferation of new pits on the block, it’s easy to forget that Bodean’s was once the capital’s first and only destination for authentic US barbecue. Our visit to the Tower Hill branch proved this small chain is still serious about the smoke. We recommend bypassing the more pedestrian burgers, hotdogs and steaks and heading straight for the barbecued food, a sharing platter being the most efficient way to savour the array of smoked meats offered.
The beauty of US barbecue is the regional subtleties that vary state to state, so as well as a plate piled high with pulled pork and baby back ribs, we also enjoyed ‘burnt ends’, or beef brisket, a tradition of Kansas City cooking. A standout helping of Jacob Ladder ribs saw the caramelised outer bark yielding to meltingly tender beef beneath. Furnished in the same playful decor as other outlets, this basement branch is a mix of hog-shaped door knobs, antler candelabras and luxe black leather banquettes.
The ground-floor bar features an extensive list of Stateside beer and cocktails, with an emphasis on bourbon and American whiskies.