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Please note, Bodean's has now closed. Time Out Food editors, MARCH 2020.
This Tooting Bec branch of a five-strong chain revels in its Americana, with American football on the TV’s, US rock music from the 1970s, and an authentically US-style menu which includes baby back ribs (£9.95 for a smallish portion) and beef ribs (£19.95 for more than most people can eat). Of the two, the beef ribs were by far the better dish: succulent, and beautifully smoked. The chips were heavily seasoned, and the coleslaw was remarkably good, not cloying like inferior versions. The little tub of chipotle mayonnaise was a nice touch, though you’ll not be short of added flavour with Bodean’s two own-brand sauces on every table. There’s a busy cocktail bar in the centre of this sprawling series of rooms, a brief wine selection and beers that cross the spectrum from the bland to the sublime. This branch has a useful outdoor dining area, inevitably used by smokers most of the time, but also handy in good weather. This branch of Bodean’s is friendly and popular, with the only catch being that no bookings are taken.