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Bōkan

Restaurants, Contemporary European Isle of Dogs
3 out of 5 stars

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

A hotel restaurant 37 floors up, overlooking Canary Wharf.

Towering over Canary Wharf, Bōkan may sit on the 37th floor of a Novotel – but this is the kind of hotel restaurant you’ll actually want to eat in. With amazing views of London’s skyline it’s undeniable that a key reason for coming here is the setting itself. Especially given that it’s been so thoughtfully decorated, with rustic Scandi and subtle industrial vibes. And if it’s true that you can judge the merits of a restaurant based on its loo, then this sky-high spot – which, per square foot, rivals Versailles in its mirroring – is soaring. Service, too, was as slickly competent and polite as the surroundings. So far, so great.

The food was slightly more irksome though. Beautifully presented, the scallops tasted mainly of lemon, with only the smallest amount of lip service being paid to the promised seaweed. Similarly, the crab salad had a nice kick, but with far too much daikon (Japanese radish). Having said that, desserts were awesome, with a meringue that was everything you could hope for – coconutty, fluffy and crunchy all at once. And the ginger pudding – billed as a sharer – was so great that one person could very easily wolf the whole thing down. Don’t expect culinary fireworks, but for a dining room with a view, Bōkan will do nicely.

Note that there is a smart-casual dress code, so any sloppiness may be refused entry.

Details

Address: Novotel Canary Wharf
40 Marsh Wall
London
E14 9TP
Transport: Tube: Canary Wharf
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £120.
Opening hours: Sun-Tue Bar 38: 4pm-12.30am (last food orders 11pm and drinks 12midnight); Bar 39 10am-12.30 am (last food order 11pm and drinks 12midnight). Wed-Sat Bar 38: 3pm-1am (last food order 11.30pm and drinks 12.30am); Bar 39 10am-1am (last food order 11.30pm and drinks 12.30am). The restaurant will be closed for lunch Mon-Tue.
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