Brasserie Gustave (CLOSED)
Time Out says
Please note, Brasserie Gustave has now closed. Time Out Food editors, MARCH 2020.
Quelle fromage! This restaurant (not really an all-day ‘brasserie’ at all) is so studiedly French that it can come over cheesier than a cheeseboard. Red vinyl banquettes, canary-yellow walls, piped French pop music, Art Deco prints on the walls – the only thing missing is staff with strong French accents, and snails on the menu. Damn! It’s got those too. Still, if you like your French restaurant fully marinated in clichés, all that’s missing is Edith Piaf telling you ‘Non, je ne regrette rien.’ The cooking’s more than decent though, and precise: those escargots had a restrained amount of garlic, not too overpowering, and the accompanying baguette had good chew. Fried squid was properly crisp and dry, with a fresh saffron aioli. Roast rump of beef was properly pink and tidily carved, though both the accompanying Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes were a little dry by British standards. But – sacre bleu! There’s also a vegetarian main course on the menu, and very nice it was too: fricassee of artichokes with girolles, two types of green beans, and generous shavings of white truffles. Merveilleux, if a smallish portion size. Brasserie Gustave, named after the architect of the Eiffel Tower, does everything well. But it is oddly dated, as perhaps fits the Sydney Street locale. As such, it’s perfect for a reverie of a France that is increasingly hard to find in the Republique itself.