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We love a good stand-off. Whether it’s a dance-off, sing-off, or – as in the case of Breddos at The Player – a mini food-off. Yes, the chaps behind Breddos (a roving taco shack) have brought their Mexican wares to the Player bar where sliders from Lucky Chip have been the order of the day until now. It’s not all tacos and tequila though, Breddos also have their own mini burgers on offer. It’s Central vs North America, but without the aggressive border guards.
Of the tacos we sampled (made the traditional way: a small, soft tortilla served ‘open’, with its filling piled on to the centre), the pulled pork shone the brightest. Soft, succulent meat with a faint kick, balanced by a sweet smear of apricot chutney, a spicy tomato and coriander salsa, and a drizzle of sour cream. The other varieties all had flaws – beef short rib, though beautifully tender, was a touch overseasoned; twice-fried cod cheeks may have had a good hit of habanero chilli but was on the soggy side.
By contrast, our ‘classic’ slider was superb: a thick, juicy, pink-middled patty with molten cheese and shredded salad snuggled into a squidgy white mini-bun. Shoestring fries, likewise, were skinny and deliciously crisp. Final score? North America: 2, Central: 1.
And if you think all this ‘dude food’ would mean a blokey vibe, you’d be wrong. After all, portions are small and dainty, there’s a reliable cocktail list (originally created by mixology legend Dick Bradsell) and plenty of comfy leather banquettes. So – on our midweek visit at least – it had attracted an after-work crowd with plenty of gals: small groups giving each other career/ fashion/ boyfriend advice, plus chilled-out couples having a casual meal. They’ve all got the right idea. This is not destination dining, but if you’re in Soho and looking for a drink and a bite, it’ll do just fine.
Reviewed by Tania Ballantine