Please note, Breddos Tacos have now left Dinerama to set up a permanent restaurant. Food & Drink Editors, January 2017.
The tacos made by Breddos are about as authentically Mexican as Eli Wallach’s accent in ‘The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly’. But unlike Wallach’s villainous Tuco, they are gorgeous, sophisticated, and in excellent taste. And very easy to love.
Breddos is the creation of Nud Dudhia and Chris Whitney, two mates who started out in a taco shack in a Hackney car park. That was 2013. Now they’re well established as one of the star turns in the galaxy of Street Feast stalls, and after a lot of wandering, can now be found every week at the Dalston Yard venue and the newer Dinerama on Great Eastern Street.
Breddos describes itself as a maker of ‘non-traditional’ tacos, and that’s a fair description. But it doesn’t mean they don’t do Mexican just because they don’t do traditional. Mexican ingredients are everywhere in their cooking, especially spices, citrus and chilli, and the spirit of Mexican food, with its complex layering of flavours, is here 100 percent.
The list of tacos changes from day to day and venue to venue, but among the regulars are some version of fried fish (perhaps pollack with lime aioli and shredded cabbage) and the chipotle short ribs that originally made them famous. Fried chicken also features both in tacos and as a special standalone dish. Other specials might include fabulous marinated, grilled prawns and excellent guacamole.
Tacos cost £9 for three, so it makes sense to get one of each, for sharing or as a meal for one. Specials tend to range between £5 and £7. For £20 (excluding drinks), two people can eat till well and truly sated. Tuco would be green with food envy.