Worldwide icon-chevron-right Europe icon-chevron-right United Kingdom icon-chevron-right England icon-chevron-right London icon-chevron-right Bronte

Bronte

Restaurants, Contemporary European Charing Cross
2 out of 5 stars
Bronte

Time Out says

2 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Antipodean small plates and curious interiors just off Trafalgar Square.

Set within the enclaves of the short-lived Strand Dining Rooms, Bronte is an all-day diner offering a broad smattering of Antipodean and Pacific plates, accommodating service and OTT interior design by Tom Dixon.

The food is promisingly conceived, yet resolutely underwhelming. ‘Grapefruit salad’ was an acceptable tabouleh dotted with a few spare chunks of dragon fruit, slivers of grapefruit and not quite enough tahini yogurt – fine as a side dish but an aggressively overpriced main at £13. A soft-shell crab burger was fine, but hardly a seminal example of an increasingly faddy dish. Better was salt-baked celeriac with truffle cream and pomegranate – a bizarre mish-mash of flavours. It was perplexing, if only for the Proustian tang of penny sweets that a creamy, truffley pomegranate mix apparently evokes.

Dixon’s design, meanwhile, is less louche mid-century lounge, more cruise-ship gift shop – the blushing pastel hues and burnished gold details offset bizarrely by glass cases of dinosaur skulls, ersatz Egyptian artefacts and nobbles of quartz. ‘Interesting’ all round, then, but overwhelmingly a case of garish form over function.

Details

Address: Grand Buildings, 1-3 Strand
London
WC2N 5EJ
Transport: Tube: Charing Cross
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £90.
Do you own this business?
You may also like
    Latest news