Worldwide icon-chevron-right Europe icon-chevron-right United Kingdom icon-chevron-right England icon-chevron-right London icon-chevron-right Café Also

Café Also (CLOSED)

Restaurants, Jewish Golders Green

Time Out says

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

Please note, Café Also has now closed. Time Out Food editors.

The Book of Leviticus – the third book of the Hebrew bible – is very particular about what the followers of Yahweh may and may not eat. Making sense of the kosher food laws has led theologians and anthropologists a merry dance for more than two millennia, but the result in contemporary London is that many people of Jewish heritage still observe the most basic rules: no pork, and no mixing of dairy and meat at the same meals.

Temple Fortune, north of Golders Green station, is a centre for both the Orthodox Jewish minority and a wider liberal community. Joseph’s caters for the latter with both an excellent bookstore, and this new next-door restaurant. Both have a casual heimishe (homely) vibe, while the restaurant serves fish and dairy dishes of surprising sophistication.

Chef Ali Al-Sersy used to be chef-patron of Mims in Barnet. Before that, he trained under the Rouxs at Le Gavroche; Al-Sersy’s techniques and dish presentation are informed by French cooking from the 1890s to the 1980s.

Ingredients are simple, the skill considerable. Home-smoked mackerel is served as a timbale-like tower of fish topped with pea shoots, with a drizzle of horseradish cream and a smear of mackerel pâté. Drizzles, blobs and leaf garnishes decorated every dish, including a quinoa and mushroom ‘pudding’ topped with long roots of roasted salsify and a sauce of parsnip cream. Sometimes the artistry is taken a little too far: a dish of roasted cauliflower had a charred floret as the centrepiece, but the accompanying cauliflower kofte – like spherical canapes on cocktail sticks – made the dish.

Café Also’s cooking and welcome are pitched just right for the neighbourhood, but it’s worth the schlep even for goyim (non-Jewish people) up Finchley Road from the tube station.

Posted:

Details

Address: 1 Ashbourne Parade
London
NW11 0AD
Cross street: 1255 Finchley Rd
Transport: Tube: Golders Green tube or bus 82,102 or 460
Do you own this business?
You may also like
    Latest news