Caia has been through various iterations since it opened in 2022. Back then, the Notting Hill restaurant was one of the first places to jump on the Japanese listening bar trend – since before smoking was back in and everyone was wearing Tabis. It’s had a few different head chefs, too. Now at the helm is one of London’s coolest cooks, Aussie firebrand John Javier, who has arrived at Caia after departing Fitzrovian celeb haunt The Tent (at the End of the Universe).
Each bite is a perfect little party in my mouth
With a brash menu that fuses Chinese and Italian flavours, Javier is all about putting fun – and decadence – into Caia’s sharing plates. Think; cheung fun noodle cacio e pepe, caviar and tuna cannolo and ube matcha tiramisu.
Here, the starters are the real stars. Each bite is a perfect little party in my mouth. Fat oysters are delivered with a sweet and tart sprinkling of calamansi citrus and chilli. Juicy baked scallops come coated in crispy pangrattato and a bright chervil sauce. Adorable savoury cannoli are stuffed with fresh bluefin and salty caviar. I wasn’t prepared for the flavour explosion of warm flatbread with bottarga taramasalata – the bread is soft and doughnutty with a dusting of za’atar, while the golden halo of dip, swimming in olive oil, is seriously umami.
Perhaps ordering a triplet of carbs and fried foods – carbonara, schnitzel and risotto – for our main course was a bit much, but when in Notting Hill… The off-menu cheung fun carbonara is so rich and gooey it should come with a side of statins; fat noodles bathe in a glossy sauce, although the guanciale could be a bit crisper. The red prawn risotto is a tad al dente, but looks a treat, topped with frothy foam and gloriously pink slices of crustacean.
By now we are sufficiently squiffy thanks to an excellent wine pairing, and for dessert are whisked downstairs to enjoy the more clubby atmosphere. A selector in a brown leather jacket spins vinyl spanning funk, disco and experimental jazz, which feels fitting for a décor of crystal chandeliers and Aztec-patterned seating – an eclectic foil to the sleek upstairs restaurant. Our tiramisu might be missing a touch of bitterness, but Caia’s rich chocolate molten cake already feels like a classic.
Dinner here will put a dent in your wallet. But if you’re looking for a festive meal with a riotous menu, Caia is a solid bet.
The vibe A slinky west London vinyl restaurant and bar with a buzzy chef in the kitchen.
The food Decadent and mischievous Italian-meets-Chinese small plates.
The drinks A great list of high-end wines from around the world and winning cocktails.
Time Out tip Come for Notti Hour (5.30pm-6.30pm, Tue-Sat) for £8 wines and cocktails.