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Cake Boy

Restaurants, French Battersea
4 out of 5 stars
2 out of 5 stars
(3user reviews)
Cake Boy

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

A boutique patisserie close to Wandsworth Town

Cake Boy – a chic patisserie near Wandsworth Town – is discreetly tucked away on the ground floor of Kingfisher House, surrounded by upmarket riverfront flats, the sort that look more like empty fish tanks than actual homes. Inside, hot pink and orange chairs add to the quirkiness of this swish bakery, which also runs cookery classes.

The food here is exceptional. I’m told by master pâtissier Eric Lanlard, who set up Cake Boy in 2007 after working as head pastry chef for Albert and Michel Roux (owners of two-Michelin-starred Le Gavroche), that the menu changes at least weekly, but sometimes just ‘depending on how we feel when we wake up in the morning’.

This passion shows. A salmon tart came with satisfyingly firm pastry and silky egg, juicy broccoli florets and sprigs of rosemary. This was followed by a savoury muffin, filled with bacon and omelette, which was airy and light, then a buttery croissant sandwich with goat’s cheese and tomatoes.

On the sweet side, a pain au chocolat with roasted almonds had a skilfully crisp outer shell, with rippled pastry layers and gooey almond cream inside. Cake Boy also has an extensive selection of macaroons. It’s worth a trip for these alone. The raspberry and hibiscus was tangy and fragrant; cherry with white chocolate was simultaneously creamy and sour; and the lime macaroon was accented with desiccated coconut. The flavours of the liquorice and fig macaroon – apparently a favourite among customers – were beautifully balanced, too.

But the highlight of the show was the black forest gâteau. Heart-stoppingly indulgent, this was a perfectly rectangular block with distinctive layers of chocolate sponge, vanilla cream and cherries. The cherries on top were adorably decorated with gold paint, and the cake came with a brilliantly sour pot of Greek yoghurt, sprinkled with rose petals and pistachios.

Yes, this bakery looks slightly misplaced in its achingly smart residential setting, but the staff are incredibly friendly, and the pastries are delightful.

By: Ella Braidwood

Posted:

Details

Address: Kingfisher House
Juniper Drive
London
SW18 1TX
Cross street: Battersea Reach
Transport: Wandsworth Town rail
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £50.
Contact:
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Users say (3)

2 out of 5 stars

Average User Rating

2.3 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:0
  • 4 star:0
  • 3 star:1
  • 2 star:2
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|3
1 person listening

Visited with my daughter, a huge lanlard fan. We were both terribly disappointed. The cafe is very small, the service is far too laid back (used to be called sloppy), the savouries, croque Monsieur, we're soggy and tasteless. The cakes were excellent, but the choice very limited. Definitely not worth the trek to get there. We will be ticking to fortnums from now on. They have never let us down and they're much more central.


Cakes look fabulous here but unfortunately it's style over substance; most of the 'cakes' are nice but the black forest gateaux is actually inedible! The over-use of glace cherries together with very rice ganache made the whole thing so disappointing. Diplomatic feedback was not welcomed either, let alone acted upon. If you want good looking cakes that taste okay or (if you choose the black forest cake) are dreadful then go here! We won't be going back - stick to Ottolenghi!


Booked Champagne Afternoon Tea for ourselves and 2 friends. This was presented on two slate platters - one savoury and one sweet. The savoury rolls and croissants had good quality fillings but were let down by being in very ordinary rolls. The sweet platter looked a work of art and had been made with skill but somehow did not deliver quite the wow factor we were expecting. There were no actual cakes - macaroons, mousses, tiny cornets, miniature fruit tarts and chocolate tarts. The service was a bit too relaxed - we had to ask when they were going to serve the champagne! The toilets were very 'used' and were not particularly clean. For what we paid I don't think it was value for money. We won't go back.

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