Time Out says
A stylish Bengali restaurant in Brixton.
When it comes to design, the second restaurant from food blogger Shrimoyee Chakraborty is spot-on. Everything from the ornately framed mirrors hanging on painted brick walls to the fold-out boards for the concise Bengali menu begs for a place on your Instagram. So, full marks for first impressions.
Good, too, was a large pile of meaty whitebait with a punchy mustard-seed chutney that kicked the meal off, and the addictively creamy mishti aam doi – a sweet yoghurt dish topped with mango chunks – that finished it. But these hits were eclipsed by too many misses: a heavy on-the-bone lamb curry that featured barely any meat, a set of mushy coriander and poppyseed fritters that were far too salty and ultimately inedible, and a watery crab curry from which I set aside a giant claw packed with translucent, uncooked flesh. The latter was flagged with our waiter but still appeared on the bill.
With some fine-tuning, it’d be easy to imagine Calcutta Street becoming a fun alternative to Dishoom, for spice-lovers who want a more nuanced take on Indian cuisine than they’re likely to find at their local curry house. For now, though, you might just want to follow them on Instagram.
395 Coldharbour Lane
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