This plainly furnished Chinatown veteran seems be getting even more ragged around the edges. But don’t be misled by looks: Canton has become reliable once again for one-bowl dishes of rice-with-meat or noodles-with-meat. Rice comes in generous portions and is proudly served the traditional way (warm, with cold roast meat). Prices range from £5.80 to £7.30, making for an eminently wallet-friendly meal. But don’t overlook the list of hand-pulled and hand-sliced noodles, available with a range of toppings for £6.80-£8. Service is friendly and accommodating by Chinatown standards – we watched in admiration as staff tried to find something suitable for two elderly and rather demanding vegetarians.