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Casa Pastor

Restaurants, Mexican King’s Cross
4 out of 5 stars
 (Sam Ashton)
Sam Ashton
 (Sam Ashton)
Sam Ashton

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

A King’s Cross spin-off of Borough Market’s El Pastor.

Got a thing for tacos? Casa P is your friend. The relaxed little sis of El Pastor does seven types (11 if you count the large DIY options). And they’re the best thing on the menu. The tortillas themselves have an integrity you don’t often see in London, which is a slightly nerdy way of saying that they’ve got good bite, genuine flavour, and won’t fall apart when handled. As for the fillings, chipotle chicken was the best of what we tried, but baja fish (battered goujons, slaw and salsa) and a veggie option of chayote (slices of gourd and mild jalapeño, plus refried beans and crumbly queso fresco) also impressed. Not least because we loved the brooding black tortilla bases.

There were more delights: an open quesadilla (that is, topped, rather than filled), the griddle-fried and loaded with succulent signature ‘al pastor pork’, and cheese from the Mexican town of Oaxaca (pronounced Wahaca). And a pleasant little sea bass ceviche, its tart juices laced with lime and red onion. So it’s a pity that a dish of prawn ceviche let the side down. It had a sugary yet acidic tomato sauce that was just odd. Avoid.

But overall, Casa Pastor was very good. It’s one of those large, laidback joints you go to for casual catch-ups, the kind that combines good looks – vibrant colours, a huge tree in its centre – with helpful staff, better-than-average food and fairly friendly price tags. It feels like the kind of place which will end up being rolled out across town. Which would be no bad thing.


Address: Coal Drops Yard
Transport: Tube: King's Cross St. Pancras
Price: Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £90.
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