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With a name like Chicken Society, this new Finchley Central restaurant must specialise in chicken, right? Wrong. Well, half right. Despite its name and the chicken-themed decor, there isn’t just one bird on the menu here – it also serves rotisserie duck. But if you’re in any doubt as to the general remit, the walls are adorned with neon signs saying things like ‘fire it up’ and ‘bird is the word’ – it all feels slightly overdone.
Happily, the chicken is not. Lightly seasoned with paprika, oregano and garlic, it was perfectly tender and served with a griddled lemon, which was a nice touch. It’s the best thing here. The duck, flavoured with a five-spice rub, was disappointingly dry. Both birds come in quarter, half or full portions. As well as mac ’n’ cheese and crinkle-cut chips (don’t bother with the parmesan and truffle version – they’re not worth £5), there’s also, er, spiralised courgettes. But don’t panic, they’re deep fried – the Hemsley sisters would not approve. The website promises that there’s ‘never been anywhere like the Chicken Society’, which seems a bit much. But it’s a decent enough option if you’re in the area.